The Business End
In December, a Swedish company held a sale on two styles of jeans that were manufactured in North Korea.
Strange enough, this was shortly after news broke that Kim Jong-Il was cracking down on "untidy western hairstyles." In addition to the beef Jong-Il was having with the mops of his people, jeans are not allowed to be worn under the strict dress code of North Korea.
So why did this Swedish company make their $200 jeans there?
Noko Jeans did not only hire the country's people to cut and stitch, but also, they are marketing them as "Jeans from North Korea." Hence, the name No-Ko.
The company is owned by three Swedes all under the age of 25, with no fashion or business experience. They insist their intention, when hitting up the communist country to make their denim, was to reach out to a country that has been isolated for the past 60 years.
Meanwhile, the very same people who assembled the fashions are unable to wear them. But these Swedes are hopeful that they can "make clothes that our friends in the country can wear too."
North Korean Leader, Kim Jong-Il wearing Noko Jeans. Photo by: My brilliant friend who chooses to remain anonymous.
Isn't that just dreamy? Allowing a trio of-20 somethings to manufacture skinny jeans in a communist country which recently sentenced two US journalists to 12 years of hard labor could be seen to some as strategic move on the part of North Korea. Was it to prove that they don't starve, torture or watch people die in their labor camps?
In fact, the Noko project was taking place at the same time as the media frenzy surrounding the imprisoned U.S. journalists. When Laura Ling and Euna Lee were still being held in North Korea, experts assumed that the release of these women would not come without extortion. As it turned out, Big Willie Style was said to be the reason they were able to return to the United States
Kim Jong-Il is no fan of Mrs. Clinton, though, as the country's spokesperson told The New York Times in August: "The North Korean Foreign Ministry objected to her “vulgar remarks” and called her 'a funny lady' who was neither intelligent nor diplomatic. 'Sometimes she looks like a primary-school girl and sometimes a pensioner going shopping.'" While this statement regarding Hilary is irrelevant to the rest of this blog, I had to post it.
The U.S. government denied that President Clinton apologized for the journalist's acts, or that the conversation with Jong-Il went beyond anything other than securing Ling and Lee's release. It was suggested that their release was reciprocation for Bill Clinton sending a condolence letter after the death of Kim's father, Kim Sung-Il. But can we ever really know if Kim Jong-Il asked Clinton to impersonate James Bond and incessantly quote lines from the movies? Perhaps they even got drunk and talked smack on Hilary's wardrobe?
So maybe the motivation behind how Noko Jeans were allowed in North Korea is not that deep? I'm unfamiliar with the laws and the negations it would take with the Korean government in order for the trio to be able to gain access to the country's factory. From what I understand, stores are state run and consumer goods are limited.
But according to this video, (which one fashion blog site referred to as "cute") they sent an email and were invited in.
HELLO IT'S Noko Jeans! from Noko Jeans on Vimeo.
Did I just see a North Korean propaganda film or one of those artsy Calvin Klein perfume-like commercials? Vodka, handshakes, and jeans? What the....I'm so confused.
As it turns out, the Swede entrepreneurs "stumbled upon North Korea’s new website, which called for new businesses from battleship building to potato farming, they knew they couldn’t pass up the opportunity to take the country up on the offer."
Still, how? Why? North Korea has long been notoriously criticized by Rights organizations for human rights violations, including forced labor. Noko Jeans says that this is not exploitation, a publicity stunt or about money. Rather that these kids just want to buy North Korea a Coke...or rather have them make hipster jeans.
Noko also insures they were present during the manufacturing process to make sure their "Code of Conduct" was followed.
"The factory we worked with had never heard of a 'Code of Conduct'" said Noko's frequently asked questions portion of their website. You don't say?
Still Noko believes they are doing their own equivalent of political and moral negotiations by dropping by to see our shut-in Korean counterparts and have they future plans for more black denim. (Blue jeans are too closely associated with Western culture).
I put out an email request to the company for an interview, as they say on the website "They promise to answer every question." I think there is so much more we can ask this company.
Last, I hope to get information on what is next for the Swede denim makers and their partnership with North Korea.
Kim Jong-Il models for Noko Jeans. Photo by Anonymous, not because of fear of North Korean retaliation, but rather the artists says "its not my best work."
