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Posts for January 2011

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Jan 28, 2011 11:09AM

Pre-Fall 2011 Collections: Spring is Never Coming

In this nutty world we call the fashion industry, it's generally time to think about the spring 2011 fashions. Though, here in NYC, Mayor Bloomberg once again has neglected to prepare for another round of snow, like its some elusive, unexpected element. I am snowed in and missing out on some great cereal print ad money, might I add!

Ranting aside, how can I possibly think of swimsuits, light silks and shorts when the 5ft of snow is being shoveled by the single mom that lives one floor below me? (My landlord lives in Staten Island so he probably can't get out to Brooklyn).

So, I say is there a better day to check out pre-fall 2011 collections? You won't be able to get your hands on any of it until June/ July 2011. Pre-Fall while sometimes overlooked, for me has some great gems. Perhaps since its a capsule collection of sorts, designers tend to get a bit more adventurous. Without further ado, Pre-Fall clothes porn to ogle while trapped indoors due to in-climate weather.

PAIRED DOWN PREP

Akris Pre-Fall 2011

Akris, Jason Wu

You like the preppy style but find it unnecessary to make it so literal with popped collars and bright tropical colors. You have a summer home and graduated from an Ivy League school, but you don't feel the need to say it.

CHECKERED PAST

Dior Pre-Fall 2011

Dior, Viktor and Rolf

Whether its 1960's movie fashion icon or 1920's prohibition gangster with a sprinkle of lumberjack, plaids are in for prefall.

NOT SO BASIC BLACK

Martin Maison Margiela Pre Fall 2011Jean Paul Gualtier Pre Fall 2011

Maison Martin Margiela, Jean Paul Gualtier

Im not going to give you cliche phrases like "Back in Black" or "Black is the New Black." Black is in, its always in. It will never go away. Purple, Gray or navy is not the "new black." So yea, stop with that.

1970'S OBSESSED

Diane von Fursten Pre Fall 2011Just Cavalli Pre fall 2011

Diane von Furstenberg, Just Cavalli

Going through my mom's closet back in the 80's, I laughed and swore I'd never wear the 70's styles she held on to. I eat my words, man, and my mom was goovy. Its hard to find a pre-fall designer that wasn't influenced by the pant suit shapes, floppy hats and mid calf a-line skirts of the era.

GREAT GATSBY GALA

Louis Vuitton Pre Fall 2011Naeem Kahn Pre Fall 2011

Louis Vuitton, Naeem Kahn

"It excited him, too, that many men had already loved Daisy--it increased her value in his eyes."
- F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Great Gatsby.

 

So you want to check out spring anyway?

Not in the mood for Spring? Sample Berlin Fall Fashion Week.

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Jan 24, 2011 7:00AM

Berlin Fashion Week: the top 10 Looks

Some of us have not had the opportunity to travel overseas. As a result, when speaking of German people, we (or, I mean "I") may conjure up images of women with braided pigtails in floral dresses and men in lederhosen, dancing arm in arm with beer steins to tuba music.

Though, if you really want to get an idea of what modern German fashion looks like, then check out my top ten looks from Winter/ Autumn 2011 Berlin Fashion Week (like the rest of this blog, in no particular coherent order).

 

DAWID TOMASZEWSKI

Dawid studied under Dame Vivienne Westwood, worked for Sonia Rykiel and Comme Des Garcons. When checking out his collection for the Autumn/ Winter 2011, its not hard to tell his strength is his knits and mixing of textures. Though he showed many of ho-hum looks, the stand outs were hell-yeah over the top.

ESCADA SPORT

Escada Sport

In the late 70's and early 80's this veteran German label was the coolest for luxury loving poof-haired debonairness. They struggled to stay alive during the 1990's. Then  in 2009, the company filed for insolvency.  With the help of a buyer bail out, Escada, and the Escada Sport label is still walking the runway. This season, with a "glacial adventure theme" the younger focused sibling's sport label churned out contemporary-trend friendly pieces. Though, it's doubtful we'd see this girl trekking though the Antarctic in shorts, the muffler bag scored this look a spot on my list.

STEFAN PELGER

Stefan Pelger

Stefan Pelger's collection entitled Eisenblum which means "Frost Patterns" from what I can gather from my brief, lazy Google search. I don't know for sure. I don't speak German and there's a 99.9% chance I will never learn. Anywhoo, this was one of my favorite collections of Berlin Fashion Week. It was absolutely the most consistent. By this I mean, it seems many of the designers that showed in Berlin went from rock, to secretary, to straight up simplicity. While I would equate frost patterns with white, I really admired this "bee-keeper sophisticate in mourning" aesthetic.

LALA BERLIN

Lala Berlin

Mixed in with a couple of wackadoo patterned suits, Lala Berlin presented some incredibly cool interpretations of everyday ready to wear. While most looks in the collection didn't really come off as sexy as the above look, this minimal plunging sweater coupled with bright yellow  wide leg  trousers hooked me. Note, that I usually loathe yellow anything, as the color reminds me of illness or hospital walls.

IRENE LUFT

Irene Luft's collection was inspired by art nouveau Jugenstil, or literally translated, "youth style, " combined with Bauhaus or fine art crafty stuff. After reading all of that, I get it completely. If left to my own devices, I would assume it was inspired by an Cher era Bob Mackie on lithium, which as you can see is not at all a bad thing.

SCHUMACHER

Dorothee Schumacher laid out one of the most manic collections I clicked through of all the designers showing at Berlin Fashion Week. I'd imagine if my untraveled self was actually wandering around Germany, this is a metaphor for how I'd actually be feeling: confused. Though, what I did like was that among some of the complete fails, individual looks had something thrown in that gives the impression of a chic woman who is still down to earth. This look, an untucked shirt under a tailored suit was just that.

LENA HOCSHEK

Lena Hoschek

If Zooey Deschanel wasn't sitting front row at Lena Hoschek's show, she should've been. Only a cute quirky (Zooey doesn't like that adjective, though how else to describe her slips my mind) cool chick like that can pull this off. While the majority of men would dismiss Lena's girl, the smart ones know that she has something going on without having to put it all out there. Smart guys and dudes with sexy librarian fetishes....

DIMITRI

Dimitri gave a 1970's throw back that the modern day Rachel Zoe would die for or is it "Sterben?" I don't know, I can only make sense of Latin based languages. There were some literal translations when it came to clothing with wide leg jeans and capes, but then there was this Bianca Jagger gem.

A.F. VANDEVORST

AF Vandvorst

Another veteran showing with up and comers, A.F. Vandevrost's collection "A.Friend" was the result of chatting with real friends about what the design duo should create. The result are clothes emerging from the suggestions of pals. So, yea, if your friends are high-styled bad ass chicks.

ALLUDE

Allude

Allude is familiar to me because I actually used a piece in a shoot that I did for Husk (release date TBD).  While the line was supposed to be "cashmere for the Gatsby Goddess." I got more of an uptown 1980's vibe. This look, with the "A" reminded me of Laverne, from the late 70's early 80's sit-com, that is if she moved on up, to the east side like the Jeffersons.

 

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Jan 18, 2011 11:15AM

Raven Denim's Designer Yael Torbati: For Betterment of the Booty

Yael Torbati of Raven Denim
Raven Denim's Designer: Yael Torbati

Yael Torbati, Creative Director of Raven Denim- An Exclusive Fashion Funhouse Emporium Interview.

By Amber Stolec

I believe it was the poet Q-Tip of a Tribe Called Quest who said "The booty. If you is a crook then you takin' it. The booty, if you got one, then you shakin' it."

Shakin it, Indeed.

When it comes to shopping for the right pair of jeans, the experience can be overwhelming.

Raven Denim's creative director Yael Torbati makes that decision easy. Her styles are chic, tailored and most importantly, her denim is about the betterment of booties everywhere. And isn't that what we all want?

 

Why denim?

Denim is amazing to work with because it's so incredibly versatile. It's one of the few fabrics that you can really manipulate in the wash process so it makes for a wide range of looks. I can take one denim fabric and wash it three different ways and you would never know that its the same fabric. Plus, denim just rules- its cool, comfortable, & sexy. If you make it right, then your butt will look better! So the final answer: denim for the sake of improved butts all over the world!

How did you get started in denim design?

I actually didn't seek it out. I fell into it. One of my earlier positions was at American Eagle Outfitters and they separate all of the designers into different categories. Pants & Denim used to be in one category and they hired me to work with another designer on it. Their denim business started growing and soon the category was too big and it needed its own focus. So they decided that I should only work on the denim. That's when I really learned the technicalities of denim & fell in love with the fabric.

What is different about designing a denim collection as opposed to a line of Ready to Wear?

Ready to wear is very season based meaning you design per season and the next season you start completely a new. You can be as schizophrenic as you want in you design theme from season to season. Denim, to some degree, is season-less meaning it builds on itself. Styles that are successful can carry over for several seasons or even years. You still need to take the successful bodies and offer them in new ways (like new denim qualities/washes) to build on the offering for your "core" or basic denim line. Of course, since Raven has a big fashion element and is not just about basic jeans, I get to play with a lot of different fashion ideas from one season to the next.  I'm lucky in the way that I get to somewhat change my tune from season to season and experiment with new ideas that may not be necessarily of the denim market.
What is different about your denim?
It makes your butt look great! Seriously, it does...but besides that I like to think that Raven stands out because it has a unique tailored aesthetic. It's not about bells and whistles but about subtle, unique details that still evoke a classic sophisticated feel. The fabrics are all incredibly soft and comfortable and the washes are either clean or very vintage-like but done in a natural way that looks authentic. Also, with the tailored philosophy, Raven offers jeans that are very "un-jean" like which I think makes us different altogether from other denim lines.

When you think of an iconic denim image, what comes to mind and why?

I think of Marlon Brando & James Dean circa 1950's movie imagery. Images from movies like The Wild One and Rebel Without a Cause. I guess this comes to mind because it was denims "golden age" and I think the craze for denim really spread with the help of these characters rebellious wardrobes. Plus, they just looked bad-ass in their jeans!

Describe a typical work day for you.

It depends on the day and the point I am at in the season so each day will incorporate lots of emails/correspondence to take care of in the mornings, eat chocolate, create design packs to give to the pattern maker for new styles, conduct fittings, fabric appointments, eat more chocolate, work on new wash ideas or approve washes, labdips, sketch, eat more chocolate, research the web for vintage inspiration, sales meetings, production meetings, public relations meetings, a little more chocolate!

How do you style your own denim? What shoes, accessories etc. What is your style?

I like to mix it up so it really depends on how I feel that day. I tend to mix in vintage pieces with super classics to give them a twist. For example a vintage secretary blouse with a simple J. Crew cashmere cardigan. I have a lot of vintage shoes and  I guess I have a thing for wooden heels/clogs etc. I love socks so I like for them to peak out unexpectedly for a pop of interest and really be a part of an outfit and I love unexpected color combos.

You have a day off. What do you do?

I wake up extra late, have an amazing brunch, take our wiener dog on a hike, do a little vintage shopping, go to a Korean spa and get a scrub & massage, meet my boyfriend for a delicious dinner, finish the night off with a major karaoke session & some beards papa for dessert!

 

READ OTHER DESIGNER INTERVIEWS ON FASHION FUNHOUSE EMPORIUM



Credits: Be Cool! Please do not re-post or republish any portion of this copyrighted interview or photos without crediting and linking back to the author, Amber Stolec, the website, Fashion Funhouse Emporium, and the photos to Raven Denim. A special thank you to  Dennis and Yael.

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Jan 4, 2011 2:45PM

Best Dressed in the Apocalypse

What if  you knew the world was going to end May 21, 2011? Well, you should know that it will, according to this theologian, Harold Camping. Harry says "psssht" to those who believe Armageddon will happen in 2012.

Then, this past week in Arizona, dead birds fell from the sky and Kirk Cameron went on CNN to talk about it. What more proof do you need?

2012 or 2011, either way, that doesn't leave us much time, now does it? I'm not the type to go out, rob banks, shoot up the town, or drink excessively when I hear that judgement day is coming. I'm not going to loot, but what I will do is max all my credit cards. I wont have to pay them back. Rebel! Genius!

What would I get with my middle class line of credit? Duh, fashion!

Here is a list of Items I'd buy in preparation for the end of the world:

Chloe Leather Dress

Chloé Whipstitch leather dress

A leather dress is a necessity in times like this. If you haven't seen Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome, then you have no clue what Im talking about.

 

Opening Ceremony Metal Tip Boot

Opening Ceremony Metal Tipped Ankle Boot

You may think that high heels are an ill choice, but trust me, I thought about this. With 5 inch heels, I can easily step over dead birds. Since this shoe has a metal tip, it's added protection. I can add some tights if necessary, but I fear it may be hot, like end of the world hot.

 

Floppy Brim Fedora by Rag and Bone

Yes, I know its more Indiana Jones than Thunderdome, but I need a cool looking hat.

 

Maison Martin Margiela Bracelets

Maison Martin Margiela Set of two 24-karat rose gold-plated arm cuffs

I need some bad ass arm bands and warrior style jewelry...made by Maison Martin Margiela.

 

Marni Satchel

Marni Small leather satchel

My phone probably wont work, so Ill need something large enough to carry some sort of Morse code type device (which also wont work if there are no more cables to transfer signals) but I can probably find some tin cans and rope.

 

 

 

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Jan 2, 2011 5:03PM

A New Year and a New-ish Direction

A year ago when I got canned from AOL Stylelist (replaced by an overseas writer who could reach the breaking news faster than me) I decided I missed writing about fashion.

I started this blog with no expectations and 50,000 hits later, my goofy named blog actually had readers. Where to go next was the problem. I found myself with hardly anytime to post given my day job is an assistant to fashion stylists here in New York.  When I did write, it seemed I was getting bored with the same ol' posts that every other fashion blog out there had.

This year I've decided to take it back to basics, the good old fashion self indulgent first person posts that my blog class teacher advised against. Here's to taking risks in 2011.

Thanks for following and I hope you'll enjoy the posts to come.

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