Fashion Funhouse Emporium

Ann Yee

One of the newest designers on the block, Yee staged her first presentation at an off-site venue called the Sky Room for New York Fashion Week Fall 2011.She launched her first collection in 2009. The former knitwear designer for Barneys, Elizabeth and James, LAROK and Alice + Olvia set out with ambitions to create her own contemporary line.

Colors: Blues, grays, purples.

Materials: Knts, silks, chiffons, tweeds

Loved Looks

View full collection on wwd and ann yee

Yee's collection was inspired by dark emotions, hence the color schemes of moody grays, black and purple. Particularly cited was Keats' poem When I Have Fears:

When I have fears that I may cease to be
Before my pen has glean'd my teeming brain,
Before high-piled books, in charactery,
Hold like rich garners the full ripen'd grain

Ah, I remember when I was in my 20's and so inspired by melancholy. (It will pass and you'll be more inspired by pay checks. Just kidding. Im still in my teens. Er, mentally.) Though, Ann Yee had some solid separates that hit the middle ground in a market of too young and too old. Structured trousers and dresses helped with a sophisticated silhouette, without being too granny.

Unloved Looks

Here's the thing. With 60 some shows that I actually put into my schedule, not counting the ones I entered incorrectly into my calender and the invites that my US postal courier will dig from the cracks of his seat and decide to deliver three weeks from now, and not counting the designers that will never invite me to their shows...New York Fashion Week is cluttered. Its the equivalent of Times Square advertising. You are bound to remember the ones that stand out the most. With Ann Yee's show, while there was nothing terrible, there weren't many pieces that stood out in this massively over saturated market. Perhaps if she continues, she will find her way and break though the crowd.

People, Scene, Music

This off-site show used the Sky Room with the city as its background and violin music as ambiance.

Video

ANN YEE AW11 VIDEO LOOKBOOK from ann yee on Vimeo.

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Irina Shabayeva

The Project Runway winner is still labeled as such. Though, shes working her way to an established designer in her own right. This is her third runway show at Mercedes Benz Fashion week, not counting the reality show one, of course.

When hitting the show venue for her fall 2011 runway, a magazine called "Edge" was on each seat, with a vamped out Irina on the cover. I thought it was one of the most unique run of show programs I'd ever seen, then I realized that it was not a spoof, but a real publication.

Her Fall 2010 show was backed by Tupperware. She created couture creations that really showcased that this reality show designer is not just a flash in the pan. That said, why she would model her own clothes for an unknown magazine (in which the editor of the interview portion actually left his name in as in "well you know, Dan...". We don't care that you are there Dan) doesn't make sense to me. Not only were the pictures odd, but I didn't want to hear about Irina's days on the show. What would've been much more interesting to those who want to take her seriously was reading about the inspiration behind her Fall 2011 collection.

In between all the stuff we already know about what happens behind the scenes on these competitor shows, Dan did manage to let us know that Irina has a bridal line in New York's luxury bridal boutique Kleinfeld.

Colors: red, black, cobalt blue and white

Materials: knits, sequins, satins, cottons

Loved Looks

Irina Shabayeva Fall/ Winter 2011 Photos by © Dan Lecca

While Irina is now selling evening and bridal, it seems to me that her strengths lie in tailored ready to wear.  Her flair skirts were cute, high fashion and yet flattered the figure. Her style is cool down town city chick, but the formal dresses didn't seem to fit that persona. Instead, what did were her hooded knits, tailored jackets and leggings

Unloved Looks

Perhaps its that I didn't get a date to my high school prom until last minute. Maybe its that I've never worked on jobs that require me to dress a celeb for black tie or award events. Is it that I don't understand evening wear?  In an attempt to revive the elements of the Tupperware collections that worked so well-- it seemed to me, Irina presented several laser cut gowns, which somehow just didn't work for me. They looked too crafty as if she was trying too hard. Too many jewels, too many experimental techniques. Based on what Ive seen from Irina she's a more edgy (even her current dresses on have more of her personal style) and these evening designs weren't what I expected to see.

Video

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View Irina Shabayeva Fall 2010

Last season, Norwegian born Elise Overland brought violinist Hahn Bin down the runway in her clothes. This season she launched an all out winter wonderland outside The Standard Hotel, complete with ice rink and 5ft igloo ice sculpture by the Art Production Fund. Did I also mention that there was a performance from 3 time US champion, two time Olympian and World Medialist, Johnny Weir?

In my twitter feed I commented "Elise Overland is the coolest (and coldest) runway show at New York Fashion Week Fall 2011." I meant it.

Perhaps it's those rock n' roll roots of her days dressing rock stars that make her want to pull out all the stops  when introducing a new collection. When so many of us in the industry are questioning the relevance of the runway shows now that instant coverage is provided online, Elise Overland reminds us all what it is to put on a show.

Colors: swirls of all colors, black, white, coral

Materials: feathers, fur, nylon, chiffon

Loved Looks

© Dan Lecca

As testament to Elise Overland's skills and wearable garments, most of the dresses and separates that caught my eye were moving on. Real people, ice skaters, moved about and they still looked so chic. Sure, the girls in 6 inch platforms who had to be helped on to the ice and led to a Rubbermaid bath mat by production wore the clothes well too. What's interesting about this season's collection is the mix of what seemed to me, editorial pieces with commerically wearable garments. Yes. I said the "c" word. Fashion is a business as well. And as always, she can make a leather jacket like its no joke.

As for the models standing on ice in stiletto boots and dresses in subterranean weather, this was probably one of those days in which they questioned their career choice, as did I...for a minute.

Photos: © Billy Farrelll Agency

Unloved Looks

I wasn't feeling Johnny Wier's giant pimp fur that he was rehearsing in, but its probably  a lot colder swooshing around the ice at the speed he does than just standing still in the 20 degree weather? But Johnny Weir is anything but bland and he says he is not afraid of PETA.

People, Scene Music

I got to The Standard Hotel ice rink early because I wanted to leave before 7pm to see some shows up the street at Milk Studios. Johnny Weir was rehearsing when I arrived. I was pretty happy to be able to see a sort of private show before the massive crowd arrived. There were some people out side the rink with video recorders and cameras, but I assumed there was a place where the models were standing in warmth, inside, by a fire place. But to both my and the model's dismay, this was an outdoor show. In the middle of winter. In New York City.

There was area on the right side of the rink that had heat lamps, but it was separated by a velvet rope. I stood outside for a bit, thinking that the heated area was just for the photo pit. After freezing my ass off for 15 minutes, I finally asked if there was a check in. Of course there was and it led right to the heat lamps.

Upon walking into the area, I was handed a cup of hot liquid. I asked "is this coffee?" No, said the girl "Its cider." Oh great, I love hot cider! I took a big swig. Then spit it back in the cup after I realized the drink was about 3/4 vodka. I'm not much of a drinker, so I just tossed it out. Though others didn't mind and seemed to be enjoying the Belvedere vodka spiked cocktails.

There were glass doors off the patio overlooking the ice where I assume any celebrity and socialte guests hid out until the performance.

Johnny Wier gave a sassy performance to his own single "Dirty Love."  He's like Britney on ice. He rehearsed to the song as well, and he skated around a bit before most people got there to some New Order.

Once he and the other ice skaters started the show, all of us were willing to freeze for fashion.

That's not coffee in those cups.                                            

If you look closely, thats me in the hat in the lower left corner.

Photos: © Billy Farrelll Agency

Video

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Norman Ambrose

This is designer Norman Ambrose's debut onto the New York Fashion Week scene. With a background that includes the Academy of Art in San Francisco, and names like Bottega Veneta and Versace on his resume, he's bringing out honed technical skills and a discriminatory eye for details.

Colors: gold, silver, gray, black, taupe

Materials: fur, beading and shiny things

Loved Looks

Wow. For those who style red-carpet, these are some looks to add to your arsenal. Often, when a new designer tries to bead, sequin and feather, the result is a strange club dress from some New York whole-sale shop in the garment district. This is absolutely not true for Norman Ambrose's collection. Tastefully and impeccably done, his evening gowns and separates proved that before he launched on his own, he made sure he had his skills down. New designers, take note, this us how you debut. The gold leaf embellished dress and the turquoise jeweled top, with a splash of late 60's early 70's actress allure were flawless. Fist bump to the stylist and creative team on this show as well.

Unloved Looks

Photos: © Kevin Tachman

I only like fur on living animals. I'm not PETA crazy, but little balls of fur are off putting to me-unless they are barking or meowing. But ladies who love to taxidermy themselves in animal pelt coats will go ape-shit over these jackets. (Pun intended)

People, Scene, Music

Photos: © Kevin Tachman

The Lincoln Center box gives presentation designers a great way to squeeze in with all of the other shows going on. Though sometimes simple white background is best. Models stood on actual boxes, leaned on ladders in front of a colored paper backdrop. It looked very much like a school gymnasium area reserved for couples pics at the school dance. Gospel-soul singer Ms. Candi Staton's Victim played in the background. As far as the people, lots of bloggers. It seems we are the new eyes for spotting the up and coming. ATL and Wintour, you missed out.

Video

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General Idea

Last season, in conjunction with the Korean Ministry of Culture, Concept Korea showed at Lincoln Center. While not a part of the Concept Korea show, Korean designer Bumsuk Choi (unfortunate English translation on the first name. Don't judge me, like you didn't notice.) has been showing his luxury label since 2004 and was the youngest designer at age 26 to join Seoul Fashion Week, helping put South Korea on the map when it comes to top designers.

Colors: bright primary colors, orange, black, navy

Materials: knit, denim, nylon, cotton

Loved Looks

View full collection on GQ.com

I would say its more difficult to create men's clothes that stand out than it is for women. General Idea gave it the best shot with the sporty-dandy collection. Its as if Apollo Ono, Justin Timberlake and Hamish Bowles took their entire wardrobe to an amusement park and dumped it onto The Rotor. Whatever stuck to the wall won.  For the majority of this General Idea collection, this worked. It managed to combine just enough styles to make it interesting but not too outlandish. I loved the colored oxford shoes.

Unloved Looks

I don't think any man should ever wear fair isle knit sweaters. Its like said person just stepped out of some bizarre Christmas photo in which the way too close family all posed in the same sweater.  Also, I'm not sure how the half oxford shoe, half snow boot would play out in the everyday on the street but I do admire the attempt at something new.

People, Scene, Music

Nine AM on a Saturday is a hard spot at Lincoln Center. A socialite or two, combined with bloggers, crashers and haute hounds showed up bright and early though.  I appreciated the black arch runway entrance. It seems like most designers don't bother with the set at the tents.

Video

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GARY GRAHAM

I thought it was only fitting to bring back blogging buddy Jamar Graham this season to cover Gary Graham.

My first show of the Fall/Winter 2011/12 Season consisted of what I thought to be 70’s and 80’s references from designer Gary Graham at his Tribeca boutique.  What I took away from his new collection consisted of a collage of motifs from Jim Morrison, Jimi Hendrix, and Janis Joplin’s eclectic styles. The hair was volumed Joan Jett styled wigs paired with paisley print bandannas. With the addition of safety pin necklaces, converse sneakers, few graphic tee’s and striped cotton socks, I was sure I was right.

I was wrong though, Gary Graham took inspiration from Joseph Campbell's Hero with a Thousand Faces. Graham told the story of three phases: departure, initiation, and return.

Looks included carrot leg pants, draped over-sized cardigans, abstract digital printed leggings and dresses, smart suiting jackets, and beautiful silk dresses and blouses.

An interesting mix of motifs and references made for a upbeat stylish collection from one of New York’s creative designer collections.

Colors

Charcoal, beige, black, digital prints in yellow, red, and orange, maroon, and Ivory

Materials

Silk, embroidered wools, cotton, lycra, felt, shearling, twill.

Loved Looks

My favorite look was hands down an amazing draped Ivory floor length wool coat with dart detailing at the hem.

Unloved look

Embroidered wool gauze jacket, black t-shirt, and border batik silk dress.

People, Scene and Music

Abandoned seaside dock with slanted door opening?

Note from Editor: I've never read Joseph Campbell's A Hero With a Thousand Faces. I'm going to go with my first assumption and say Jamar hasn't either. But, Fashion Funhouse Emporium is an educational blog, as you can tell from its name. From what my research tells me, Campbell's hero theory is based on monomyth. Though this is not Campbell's word for word explanation, the idea is that a normal dude has the chance to be a hero. If he so chooses, he ventures into a supernatural world where he faces trials and tribulations. He learns stuff, then he comes back to the normal world kickin' some knowledge.

Jamar gives the Gary Graham Presentation at Karl head rating of:

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Complex Geometries

All we could find about these designers are that they are from Montreal Canada.  You can buy their clothes online and in the store Project No. 8, a carefully curated New York City boutique. Hurry before the retailer gets taken over by a Gap.

Now on to Jamar Graham's Review!

Materials: chiffon, charmeuse, silk, wool, suede, mohair, angora.

Colors: sand, stone, black, champagne, wine, metallic foil, grey, blush, smoke.

Loved Looks

View full collection at nymag.com

Draped for the woman's man or the man's woman? This neutered collection had a true dark, but natural feeling to the collection with the showing of stone necklaces and wooden platform boots. The epitome of of unisex clothing, the androgynous looks that could be related to a more feminine version of Rick Owens. Is it bad that I always reference and relate to Parisian designers? Not at all, because like Karl, I value my opinion. The best ideas come from established Paris luxury lines. We look to them and scoop out what we can afford to “get the look.” Complex Geometries served up a great interpretation. The stone accessories styled as necklaces and bracelets were a collaboration with Harakiri, which reminded me of age rings from the center of an of old oak tree. Very complex indeed.
The off-the-shoulder mohair sweater with suede shorts and two stone necklaces was a favorite!

Unloved Looks

There was a draped top that looked like a scarf tucked into a black wrap skirt. No bueno.

Amber's two cents: Um, some of these looks were not unisex, unless you're a guy who dresses in drag. Then, by all means...proceed.

People, Music and Scene

Fashion at the strip club, now that is what fashion is about! The tunes were moody fashion music that makes you seem like your a part of the cool crowd by Ms. Honey Dijon. Check out her page, she's vampin' in the nude.

Video

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Costello Tagliapietra

A shout out to a fellow Pennsylvanian! Six years after their recognition by the CFDA The two "lumberjacks of fashion" stick to their simplistic, everyday chic dress. In May 2010, the two paired up with Uniqlo for a lower priced capsule collection.

Colors:  shades of gray, coral, orange

Materials: chiffon, sequins, silk, jersey

Loved Looks

See full collection on Style.com

C'est Chic! Or as we from the state of PA say "I like dat!" Costello Tagliapietra's strength is well fitted tailored looks. Many of the dresses are timeless and classic, and well worth the expenditure for a woman to have in her daily wardrobe stockpile. Perhaps a conscous decison to keep the runway looks to a bare minimal on the accessories, I can see many of these designs as a blank slate to amp up with jewelry and shoes that really express a girl's personal style.

Unloved Looks

Some of the head to toe monocrhomatic sequined separates were out of character for for the line. Perhaps styled differently, a pair of these pants with a different top could be well incorporated in a celebrity's wardrobe. But, the kind of girl who usually wears this designer may not be so in to these pieces.

People, Scene, Music

Milk Studios is the place to be for the cool kids these days. Editors from Marie Claire and Vogue were there. Model Maggie Rizer showed up. It was the typical "u" shaped runway and mellow lounge music.

Video

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View Costello Tagliapietra Spring 2011

Wayne

I remember a few years back, when I had the chance to meet Wayne at her studio on 38th Street. This of course was before she was covered on Conde Nast's Style.com. Yes, She. Wayne is her real name. As she showed me through racks of torn mohair sweaters, sheer leggings and minimal rock pieces, she told me her collection that season was inspired by Joy Division. I knew I liked her then.

For the Fall/ Winter 2011 season, she drew inspiration from Renaissance Painter Hans Memling.

Photo via wikipedia.org

Colors: Red, Black, White, brown

Materials: Jersey, leather, suede

Loved Looks

Since the first collection I saw from Wayne, she keeps getting better. Each time, each collection is more cohesive, more thought out and more refined. This collection exemplifies that thought. While inspired by Renaissance painter Hans Melming, she still infused that down town minimal rock chick into every look. I liked the way some cuts of her jackets were prompted by jogging jackets, but in a silky fabric. The brilliance of her collection, in fact was taking street style cuts into sophisticated pieces.

Unloved Looks

I didn't particularly NOT like this look of a white vest over top black pants and jacket, though compared to the rest of her collection, this was the least interesting.

People, Scene and Music

Buyers from Shopbop.com sat front row, along with random editors. It was the quiet kind of Milk Studio shows, not the kind that happened on Saturday, when Anna Wintour stopped in.

Video

Posted on YouTube by StyleRumor.com

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Libertine struck it big as CFDA finalists in 2004 when the line was designed by both Johnson Hartig and Cindy Greene. The two ventured into several collaborations with other artists such as Goyard, Damien Hirst, Be@rbrick, Muji, and Converse. And of course, there's they were one of the first designers to jump on board with Target.

A look at Libertine's bio page now, and you'll notice there is no mention of Cindy who helped launch the line, she screen printed; he tailored. If you head over to Cindy's site, you see Johnson Hartig mentioned. Greene left to pursue other creative endeavors according to her bio.

So how does Fashion Funhouse Emporium's guy on the town, Jamar, think of the line as a one-man show? Read on.

Materials: Wool, tweeds, painted sequins, metallic brocades.

Colors: Royal blue, black, wine, cream, yellow, fuchsia, orange, red, white, turquoise, and grey

Loved Looks

View full collection on Style.com

The triumphant fashion week return of Libertine was a hyped show that indeed delivered. The brand has  always had it’s cool-hipster points. Now, since it’s a one-man show after a split from co-founder Cindy Greene two years ago, there seems to be a new spirit and mood that Johnson Hartig wanted everyone to be a part of.  Prim and proper proportion, the key to his collection included acid hyper prints over plaids and flannels. Taking inspiration from vintage 60’s shapes (Libertine's first collections started from reworking actual vintage pieces) and a post WWI wood block blown up to the point of distortion. Who would think a chunk of wood led to the beautiful prints that were all over the jackets, coats, tops, dresses, and tights?  After this collection, lets hope that Libertine jumps back on the scene for good.

Unloved Looks

It seems a bit strange to hold on to the label's name "Libertine" since Hartig's rendition has a very different amped atheistic than the oringal line with former founder Cindy Greene. While the collection holds its own, it strays from the very vintage designs that put them on the map. Johnson Hartig can very well be successful with his own namesake label, as his collection was the most cohesive of all the Libertine collections to date.

People, Scene and Music

The show was held off-site which usually means a more cherry-picked crowd for established designers like Libertine. With Rodarte’s Kate Mulleavy, Thom Browne, Bergdorf's Linda Fargo and Meredith Melling Burke sitting front row, you can tell that Jamar and I weren't the only ones curious about the runway return of the line. Exit Art is usually so out of the way, that only the dedicated show up. The music was your typical runway fare by another DJ with a slick name: Farmer Dave Scher.

Video

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