Fashion Funhouse Emporium

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center is approaching quickly. Like past seasons, the tents will compete with Milk Studios shows and other off-site locations.  Fashion Funhouse Emporium's credentials as a legit source of coverage have finally been approved. Yay! I suppose this means I can officially talk about who I want to check out with some "street cred!"

Here are the women's designers showing at Spring 2011 fashion week that I am curious to see. Good, bad, and in between, this is what the shows are all about.

YUNA YANG

Photo: Yuna Yang Blog

This New York based fashion designer has two past collections on her site. This season, she'll be showing at Lincoln Center.  When I checked out her collections, I see potential from this Central Saint Martins grad, yet there is some question to who she wants to be as a designer. Her pieces range artsy, structural suits to very basic looking ready to wear. I'd like to see her go full throttle,with Galliano couture, if she's really not focused on selling as her biography states.  We need some more craziness at New York shows.

JENNY PACKHAM

Photo: Jenny Packham

I am familiar with Jenny Packham's lacy and ultra feminine luxury wedding collections from when I worked at In Style Weddings. Of course, I'm ready to see what this British designer (also a Central Saint Martins alumni) will send down the runway for ready to wear again this spring. Her past couple of collections showcased red carpet ready dresses, which isn't too much of a stray from matrimonial gowns. So far, she's a bit of an edgier Carolina Herrera, keeping with the high end evening wear aesthetic.

WILLIAM TEMPEST

Photo: William Tempest

Another Brit on the New York scene, this designer's past collections have been pretty basic geometric influenced body conscious dresses. He's worked with some heavy-hitters, like Jean Charles de Castlebajac and Giles Deacon. He's even designed accessories and clothing for Miss Madge, Madonna to you others. It will be interesting to see this guy evolve, hopefully away from Alexander McQueen/ Balmain style dresses and into his own signature.

PARKCHOOMOO

Photo: Parkchoomoo

So I'm not only giving preference to the British designers this season, enter Seoul, Korea's Parkchoomoo. This designer has been around fashion for a while. Her family owned a children's apparel company in Kimje, in the southern part of the country.  She opened her first retail store in 1988, but since then has had a mostly Asian following. With a less rigid Calvin Klein simplicity, and little less fear of color, she's not about getting better, for shes already established. She's about taking over a new market. I'd like to see what she has in store for the US.

IRINA SHABAYEVA

Photo: Irina Shabayeva

She's trying hard to shed her Project Runway affiliation and become a force in fashion. Last season she crept quietly on to the runway with an off-site show that showed off what she can do with a little financial backing from Tupperwear. I'm assuming this year, she may not be sponsored by the plastics company since she's no longer a newbie. But it is my guess that lack of petroleum based synthetics will not hinder her.  With the imagination showcased last season, as long as she keeps to her own without compromise, she'll be around for more than 15 minutes of reality television fame.

READ MORE PAST FASHION WEEK COVERAGE:

Spring 2011 Men's Designers to Watch

Irina Shabayeva Runway Fall 2010

Fall 2010 Condensed Report A-L

Fall 2010 Condensed Report M-Z

New York Fashion Week came and went and over here, this small staff of myself and my friend Jamar covered as much as we could. Still there was plenty to talk about this season--well, other than the clothes. So, Fashion Funhouse Emporium is counting down the 5 coolest things to happen during New York Fashion Week.

5. Fashion GPS

Photo: Fashion GPS Self Check in Kiosk

Fashion GPS, though a little confusing at first with the numerous automatic emails is a really efficient system for managing invites and seating. This was my third season gathering invites and scheduling shows for myself.  I've freelanced at InStyle managing a full list of editors fashion week schedules. This helps.

Whats cool about it:

Just click a link and respond "yes" or "no" to RSVP to invites.

Guests could scan a barcode on their invites in a self service kiosk, print out thier seats and go right in.

No waiting in line--that is unless you're a Fashion Funhouse Emporium blogger and most of the emails you get say: "Your seat number is: Standing." I might point out that is not a seat at all. Then you still have to wait in line.

Its harder to cheat the system. Strictly experimental, Jamar and I simultaneously checked in for a show. I went the old-fashioned route to the humans behind a desk and he went to the kiosk. Once I checked in at the counter, he was unable to check in at the kiosk. His message said: Amber has already checked in. No ticket for him.  Sorry crashers!

4. Live Streaming Shows & Video

Video: Isaac Mizrahi Spring 2011 Collection

For those of you who were unable to cheat the system, Milk Studios featured live streaming of some of their shows on their site Milkmade, including the "it" show of New York Fashion Week for less superstar designers: The Blonds.

For registered media, we were able to download video from Mercedes Benz Image Net and post to blogs such as mine for you to check out what went on. Bigger venues also allowed for more independent videographers to attend and thanks to YouTube, pretty much every collection is out there for your viewing pleasure.

3. Pop Up Shops & Shop the Runway

Video: Animated Video for The Florshiem Pop-Up Shop

Many designers such as Elizabeth and James, Florshiem and Mayle opened temporary shops for fashion week emergencies.

But if you have Oscar de la Renta money, then you watched the show live and ordered straight from he runway. While very innovative, those who need instant gratification, you lose.

However, Oscar de la Renta's shop the runway is a revolutionary step in by passing buyers and giving the people what they want. I wouldn't be surprised if this sort of thing catches on. Or, it should for newer designers who can't get the top tier buyers to attend their shows because bigger shows overlap simultaneously, like Oscar.

2. Presentations

Photo: Andy & Debb Presentation at Lincoln Center

While the new venue at Lincoln Center provided a very rock arena style atmosphere for show goers, still plenty of designers held low key presentations again this season.

At bigger shows, often my seat was in the peanut gallery, way up in row 5 or 6. At shows such as BCBG, Ports 1961, and other more established designers, this meant all I saw coming down the runway was a floating model head in a shirt. I was there to look at the clothes, therefore this made it impossible to see a full look until I got home and could look up collections online. Presentations, however, I walked in, snapped my pictures and got awkwardly close to the models to catch details of the fabrics. Then I silently floated around tagging music with my Shazamn iPhone app and I was out.  For party people, those who are more social, presentations allow the audience to mingle with each other, drinks in hand.

1. Designers who put the SHOW in Fashion Shows

Video- Elise Overland Runway show Featuring Han Bin.

Elise Overland sent violist Han Bin down the runway to play while wearing a look from her collection. Where many shows played it safe and showed an endless parade of minimalist looks of white for spring, some designers added flair with live performances. The Blonds had burlesque style dancers open the show, complete with large feather fans, Zang Toi sent out a half-naked cowboy, reminding show-goers that a show is just that--a show.

Chris Benz

Chris Benz grew up in Seattle. At age 17 he came to New York to study at Parsons. With an internship at Marc Jacobs under his belt, he went on to work for J Crew. In 2007, he showed his first collection at New York Fashion Week.

Colors: green, yellow, orange, blue, neutrals

Materials: knits, cotton, tulle, leather, chiffon

Loved Looks

Photos: Style.com. Click to see full collection

While many fashion reviews may think this too 60's, his collection translates well to right now. Back to the 60's is a big trend this year (Miu Miu pre-fall, Nina Ricci resort, Marni) and Benz is keeping a good thing going for Spring 2011. With a bursts of bright colors and patterns, his stand out looks were the mini pleated skirts, tie neck blouses--in a couple different colors because when it works, stick with it. The floral shoes with the neutral hued dress were the result of a collaborative effort  with Alejandro Ingelmo, which gave the looks an extra boost.

Unloved Looks

While his ruffled shirt and floral skirt combo was nice, that is my point. In a collection of bold, fun pieces, this one was the snoozer of the bunch.

Music

60's french pop music played to match his them of how we silly Americans see Parisians--if it was the 60's.

People and Scene

Though presentations are usually low-key, this one was full of heavy-hitters. Kelly Osborne, who made the rounds as several shows, Susan Sarandon, Denise Richards and Carmen Electra.

Naeem Kahn

Naeem Kahn, was born in Mumbai and launched his own company in 2003. Kahn gained some pretty impressive press during the first official State Dinner, when First Lady Michelle Obama wore one of his stunning gold gowns. But, don't expect Naeem Kahn to stick to glamorous black tie event attire. His talents lie in intricately detailed cocktail dresses and separates as well.

Colors: yellow, light blue, white, black, coral, beige, green, pewter, lavender.

Materials: Sequin, crepe, satin, chiffon, organza, linen, ostrich feathers.

Loved Looks

Photo: WWD/ George Chinsee

Photo: WWD/ George Chinsee

Photo: WWD/ George Chinsee

It's hard to pick just three looks out of a show from such a talented designer. As if I have to repeat it, we've seen plenty of the minimalist trend for Spring 2011. Naeem Kahn didn't follow on that band wagon. With plenty of first lady appropriate garments, and looks for just about any woman who wants to add glamor but not look like a silly fairy tale princess. The lily bodice on the gown above is such an original, out of the box piece that is perfect for red carpet. His silk shirt and long embellished skirt combination is chic, sophisticated and can be mixed with other pieces. The jewelry in his show was designed by his wife, Rajana Kahn, who is coming up on her own with gowns, as featured on Kristen Wiig in Gotham Magazine's May issue.

Unloved Looks

Photo: WWD/ George Chinsee

Yellow and black is usually a color combination that doesn't do it for me. Kahn's first few looks included this pattern and color. It's not a particularly bad thing, but as I mentioned at the beginning of fashion week, Im not big on the color. Its a personal bias.

Music:

Donna D'Cruz handled the groovy vibe for this show.

People and Scene

Though Naeem Kahn is a well received and respected designer, the show didn't have a celebrity driven front row. Stylist Robert Verdi, complete with sunglasses on was spotted in attendance. Since Verdi knows how to get women in the right clothes, perhaps the celebs themselves weren't needed. He will have no problem using this collection for many red carpet moments.

Written by Amber Stolec, as reported by Jamar Graham for Fashion Funhouse Emporim. Jamar attended New York's Parsons School of Design. He's worked for leader in trend and industry analysis, WGSN and as a stylist assistant. Currently runs his own blog called Treated Material. He is also launching his own clothing line to be announced soon.

Trias

Joaquin Trias was born in Spain and is self- taught. He started his collection in 2009 and showed his first collection at New York Fashion Week during the Spring 2010 season.

Colors: white, red, light brown, red

Materials: cotton, wool, taffeta, raffia, viscose

Loved Looks

More of the minimal trend graced the runways at Trias. For the woman who is shopping for a well made basic dress, Trias delivers. For the Spring 2011 season, this is the label's first addition of accessories. Rope belts, boots, pumps with wooden platforms added an extra touch of sophistication to each look.

Unloved Looks

If we are talking about fashion shows in terms of the "show" aspect, this one was as vanilla as it gets. Its not that there was a lack of skill or beautiful garments, but seeing very little variation in siloutte and color walk hypnotically down the runway made it hard to keep focus.  Many designers this season went heavy on the minimal looks which can be great for buyers, but for those of us watching for a garment that burns in the memory, this wasn't one of those shows.

Music

Sun in the Rain By Ellen Allien and Dead Disco Dancer by O Children

People and Scene

This was a Lincoln Center tent show without much hub bub. A woman sitting in the third row back had a full on Marie Antoinette hair style. That was pretty cool.

To Gift or Not to Gift: Nope.

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Jose Duran

Jose Duran, a relatively new face on the scene at New York Fashion Week, hails from the Dominican Republic. This good looking designer has the clothes to match, though not in a typical pretty sense. He's designs are edgy and innovation which is why the industry should take note.

For the Spring 2011 season, Duran showed his collection at The Time Warner Center in New York.

Photo: Berit Group/ Jose Duran

Photo: Berit Group/ Jose Duran

Photo: Berit Group/ Jose Duran

Check out this episode of Designing Minds for look into the creative process of Jose Duran, from Zoom in Design.

Today is the first official day of the Spring 2011 season for Fashion Funhouse Emporium.

Last season I broke my camera with my elbow, fell down the steps and hit my face into a wall. This season, I got hit by a cab on my way to pick up my credentials. My friend Jamar is calling it "The Fashion Week Curse."

Like most New Yorkers, getting hit by a cab is bound to happen at some point or another. For this lucky, clumsy girl, it sounded, and apparently looked worse than it actually was. I was crossing the street, while the walk sign was a go. Did I mention I had the walk sign...that said "hey, pedestrian, go ahead, walk across the street. No, seriously, its  your turn." Out of the corner of my eye, I saw this huge yellow car coming at me. In a breif second, I thought "This dude is going to hit me."  Sure enough, seconds later, I attempted to dodge the car's bumper, which hit me in the ass anyway. I fell on the cross walk. He stopped. I hopped up with only a scrape on my elbow. The passenger, a very nice (and well dressed woman) rushed out of the cab screaming "Oh MY GOD ARE YOU OKAY?? ARE YOU OKAY?" She made the cab driver get out and give me his information. Stunned bystanders were shouting, " look at your arm? Are you sure you're okay??" I was fine, and the tiny scrape on my elbow was just a reminder of what my entire body could of looked like if I wouldn't have jumped out of the way--or sort of jumped out of the way.

I can't imagine what it must of looked like to them, seeing this 115 pound girl getting knocked down by a massive yellow passenger car.  For me, I didn't knock my noggin, got a little cut and therefore, I was laughing. I said " Ive been living in New York for 8 years. I was wondering when I'd get hit by a cab!" Nothing but stunned silence from on lookers. Tough crowd! One woman demanded that I walk around to make sure I was okay. Another said I should go to the hospital right away.

I refused an ambulance. I had to make it uptown to pick up my Mercedes Benz Fashion Week press credential pass before the office closed. Don't they know its fashion week? Who says fashion people are divas? If anything, I'd give this advice: just because the signal is a lit up white guy that means walk, doesn't mean drivers are paying attention. I reported the driver to NYC's Taxi, Limousine and Car bureau for this reason only.  Secondly, you can let a hit by a car ruin your day, or you can get up, check yourself out and go on your way. Just be thankful that it wasn't worse.

With that anticdode, its time for fashion week. Today, I will try my best to make it to the all the shows I was invited to and have my review for you this evening or tomorrow AM.

I just hope the color yellow is not included in any of these collections, for I might feel a bias and give a scathing critique.

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BCBG

As if BCBG needs an introduction, this donimnant contemporary brand can be found in its own stand alone stores and in specialty department stores world wide. What is interesting about  the BCBG collection is, though it aims for a younger demographic, the over 30 crowd can still manage to find timeless, quality pieces that don't seem as if they are dressing in their teen daughters wardrobe.

This season, minimalist trends rule the runway. BCBG was no exception and paraded out models in the Lincoln Center's packed tents, complete with its usual celebrity follower (Ashlee Simpson, Kelly Rowlan) front row and every editor (including the notorious A-N-N-A) blogger and buyer in town.

Though, I can't let BCBG's show escape some criticism. What the hell was that  Ronnettes' Cover of Be My Baby by DM Stith? Ouch my ears! It was as if Will Farrell was spoofing it. I'll take the original please. And thank you.

Yuna Yang

Listed as one of Fashion Funhouse Emporium's "Women's Designers to Watch", it seems I was not alone in choosing Yuna Yang. She can be found on a similar list from The Cut blog.  The New York based designer and Central Saint Martin's graduate is showed her third collection this season.

Colors: white, black, pale pink, birght blue

Materials: lace, silk, cotton

Loved Looks

Photo: WWD

Photo: WWD

Photo: WWD

With one "house dress" and glamorous evening wear, Yang pulled together a cohesive collection which stood by her theme: "My Black Wedding Dress." If you didn't attend, the show was not about alternative goth bridal gowns, but rather a look at house wives of the 60's. With the title, the collection, the venue, one can come to the conclusion that there is a woman who's waiting to be liberated. A well done glamorous showing exuded this influence. Aside from the inspiration of the collection, Yang showed clothes that women will want to wear. The stand out looks included a  stunning long sleeve white ruffled gown, a vintage-inspired movie starlet pink classic gown and a very Jackie O embellished dress.

Unloved Looks:

Photo: WWD

This look didn't read as dramatic as the other looks that were shown in the collection. Perhaps it was the ruching from the breast to the waist, but it just didn't have the wow factor.

Music

Francais, s'il vous plait!

People and Scene

Yuna Yang showed at the Hudson Hotel - Private Park. With the upscale feel and the very feminist inspiration of the collection, she managed to create a melancholy silence with the choice of this venue. Just a random thought: We need more trees at fashion week.

To Gift or Not to Gift: Hmm. Maybe I should eliminate this section all together in my reviews.

MIK CIRE

Former Monarchy designer Eric Kim makes his second round at the Tents at Lincoln Center for New York Fashion Week. This men's designer is one to watch. He has past successful lines under his leather spats and is his own line is taking off.

Colors: Black, white, gray with hint of red.

Materials: cotton, leather, denim

Loved Looks

© Ed Kavishe, Fashion Wire Press

© Ed Kavishe, Fashion Wire Press

© Ed Kavishe, Fashion Wire Press

Since I attended the show for the Fall season, I knew I could expect some sexy men in hot clothes. With a combination of Lower East Side toughness and California skater vibe, each look was simple, but had that something extra for men who aren't trying too hard. Like last season, Kim had black trenches and fitted black jackets that men need to add to their wardrobe. Now. If I could add one word of advice, my readers went crazy over last season's leather spats and maybe they can be worked into a look or two for spring. I loved the scarves and men's jewelry with the white tees.

Unloved Looks

As a strict proponent against flip flops of any sort on male or female, unless they are wearing them at the beach or in a locker room, even Kim's funky shaped black and white shower shoes made me wince. Though, if guys decide to wear them in either of these scenarios, then they were totally cool.

Music

I missed the chance to Shazam it!

People and Scene

© Ed Kavishe, Fashion Wire Press

It was the no fuss Lincoln Center white runway venue. While there wasn't much of a set design, which is typical of these shows, MIK CIRE doesn't need them. At his shows its all eyes on the clothes. That is, unless you're into down-to-earth hottie Shannon Elizabeth and The Perry Farrell, who sat front row. I was also overjoyed to see rising male model Shawn Sutton walking in the show. I had the pleasure of working with him on a shoot for Japan's WestEast magazine which will be out in October.

For an upclose of the dudes of the MIK CIRE show, check out Fashionisto's backstage coverage.

Read Fashion Funhouse Emporium's Fall 2010 coverage of MIK CIRE. Its fall, in case you forgot.