Georges Chakra debuted his first ready to wear line, Edition Georges Chakra, in New York in 2009. Chakra initially started in haute couture shows in France in 2002.
I must admit, I haven't paid much attention to this designer, until this season. I was late for his show at the Tents in Lincoln Center. When I walked in, it was playing on the large screen. I was mesmerized. Not one to be into gala gowns (seriously, when will a blogger from Fashion Funhouse Emporium need one?) I still couldn't walk away. I'm actually glad I caught the show outside, in the lobby on a jumbo-tron screen. It gave a much better view of the perfectly tailored and uniquely detailed gowns than I would've got from my seat.
If he's not one of the hottest designers dressing celebrities this spring, then he should be. I must mention as well, the white and lighters gowns would make great wedding dresses for out of the box thinking brides.
Check it out for yourself in this Mercedes Benz Fashion Week video.
Chris Benz grew up in Seattle. At age 17 he came to New York to study at Parsons. With an internship at Marc Jacobs under his belt, he went on to work for J Crew. In 2007, he showed his first collection at New York Fashion Week.
While many fashion reviews may think this too 60's, his collection translates well to right now. Back to the 60's is a big trend this year (Miu Miu pre-fall, Nina Ricci resort, Marni) and Benz is keeping a good thing going for Spring 2011. With a bursts of bright colors and patterns, his stand out looks were the mini pleated skirts, tie neck blouses--in a couple different colors because when it works, stick with it. The floral shoes with the neutral hued dress were the result of a collaborative effort with Alejandro Ingelmo, which gave the looks an extra boost.
Unloved Looks
While his ruffled shirt and floral skirt combo was nice, that is my point. In a collection of bold, fun pieces, this one was the snoozer of the bunch.
Music
60's french pop music played to match his them of how we silly Americans see Parisians--if it was the 60's.
People and Scene
Though presentations are usually low-key, this one was full of heavy-hitters. Kelly Osborne, who made the rounds as several shows, Susan Sarandon, Denise Richards and Carmen Electra.
Karen Walker's street style and high end combination has a devoted following, especially overseas. Since 2002, this New Zealand designer has been cranking out unpretentious designs for the cool girls, who want to wear something a bit different, but without going all out avante garde.
Karen Walker's prints have to be looked at up close to be fully appreciated. I loved last season's weird deer/fly print. From far away, one wouldn't notice. That's what makes her patterns especially cool since you don't expect it. Bright colors paired with neutrals gives this collection a down played but fun aesthetic. I would wear each one of these looks for as an anytime outfit. Where Karen Walker's strengths may go unnoticed is her accessories. Have you seen the sunglasses? When I was doing market work for a stylist, I made sure to email the showroom and say "Make sure you show her the Karen Walker sunglasses!" Sure enough, the stylist came back with a handful for a shoot. Her collaboration with Pointer on the loafer shoes is classic, yet with that twist of cool that she does best.
While mixing prints has been all the rage since last spring, if not done properly, the look tends to look as if the model escaped from the mad house and accidentally strolled onto the runway in a confused stupor. Individually, pieces were great, though I really think we should all get over t-shirts carrying messages, especially when mixed with busy printed sweats.
Music
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People and Scene
Exit Art is a great venue for off-site shows. If it wasn't in West-Bumblef*ck, it would be the best show venue to see collections. Set up with benches and viewing for all, Karen Walker was not stingy with the gift bags. If you managed to wrangle a seat, you got one. Her eccentricly cool followers attended as well as editors, bloggers and a few social scene girls.
Jose Duran, a relatively new face on the scene at New York Fashion Week, hails from the Dominican Republic. This good looking designer has the clothes to match, though not in a typical pretty sense. He's designs are edgy and innovation which is why the industry should take note.
For the Spring 2011 season, Duran showed his collection at The Time Warner Center in New York.
Tibi, a contemporary collection designed by Georgia born Amy Smilovic was launched in 1997 when she moved to Asia with her husband. There she met American Octavia Hyland who's grandmother was named Tibi. The two worked closely together on textiles and managed to sell a small capsule collection. Shortly after, stores in the US asked how they could get their hands on their vividly colored, patterned styles.
"Spring is about beauty and classics with a thoroughly modern twist and styles that are simple with ease" says Tibi designer Amy Smilovic. The jumpsuits in this collection were among looks I loved in this collection, especially the tobacco colored one with the brown leather detailed trim. The cow printed flat oxfords will shine in department and online store, as well as the sexy applique cut out dress.
Tibi was a show that we all kind of know what to expect from; feminine, wearable, and of course stylish. This reflected in its attendees, you could tell they were faithful to the Tibi aesthetic, yet one attendee you wouldn't think would live up to or in Tibi at all was Olivia Paleremo from MTV's The City. She graced their front row causing a stir of emotions for the shows devoted fans, giving the show some youthful cred.
By Jamar Graham for Fashion Funhouse Emporium. Jamar attended New York's Parsons School of Design. He's worked for leader in trend and industry analysis, WGSN and as a stylist assistant. Currently runs his own blog called Treated Material. He is also launching his own clothing line to be announced soon.
It's hard to pick just three looks out of a show from such a talented designer. As if I have to repeat it, we've seen plenty of the minimalist trend for Spring 2011. Naeem Kahn didn't follow on that band wagon. With plenty of first lady appropriate garments, and looks for just about any woman who wants to add glamor but not look like a silly fairy tale princess. The lily bodice on the gown above is such an original, out of the box piece that is perfect for red carpet. His silk shirt and long embellished skirt combination is chic, sophisticated and can be mixed with other pieces. The jewelry in his show was designed by his wife, Rajana Kahn, who is coming up on her own with gowns, as featured on Kristen Wiig in Gotham Magazine's May issue.
Donna D'Cruz handled the groovy vibe for this show.
People and Scene
Though Naeem Kahn is a well received and respected designer, the show didn't have a celebrity driven front row. Stylist Robert Verdi, complete with sunglasses on was spotted in attendance. Since Verdi knows how to get women in the right clothes, perhaps the celebs themselves weren't needed. He will have no problem using this collection for many red carpet moments.
Written by Amber Stolec, as reported by Jamar Graham for Fashion Funhouse Emporim. Jamar attended New York's Parsons School of Design. He's worked for leader in trend and industry analysis, WGSN and as a stylist assistant. Currently runs his own blog called Treated Material. He is also launching his own clothing line to be announced soon.
As if BCBG needs an introduction, this donimnant contemporary brand can be found in its own stand alone stores and in specialty department stores world wide. What is interesting about the BCBG collection is, though it aims for a younger demographic, the over 30 crowd can still manage to find timeless, quality pieces that don't seem as if they are dressing in their teen daughters wardrobe.
This season, minimalist trends rule the runway. BCBG was no exception and paraded out models in the Lincoln Center's packed tents, complete with its usual celebrity follower (Ashlee Simpson, Kelly Rowlan) front row and every editor (including the notorious A-N-N-A) blogger and buyer in town.
Though, I can't let BCBG's show escape some criticism. What the hell was that Ronnettes' Cover of Be My Baby by DM Stith? Ouch my ears! It was as if Will Farrell was spoofing it. I'll take the original please. And thank you.
Yoana Baraschi was born in Romania. She's been designing contemporary collections for the fun, flirty girl for her own line since 2002. She was heavily influenced by Betsey Johnson, when Baraschi became the creative director in 1999. Not only was she impressed by the iconic designer's successful business, but also her unwillingness to compromise her visions. Yoana Baraschi has been gaining momentum ever since, now with her own online store and presence in approximately 500 specialty boutiques world wide.
While this show was a parade of theater wardrobe costumes, there were a few pieces that would fit fine on the racks at department stores for women who like a classic debutante dress. Lets not forget that there is something for everyone's tastes when it comes to clothing. Perhaps a country artist or a lady who attends black tie galas could wear a piece or two. I also very much enjoyed the shirtless male model that kicked off the show as well. So, thank you for that.
This show had more losers than winners. While I believe Zang Toi was trying to bring excitement into a fashion week of plain garments, the execution was over done. From everything to the theme, the music, and the garments, Lone Star Cowboy & The Texas Rose was a literal display of the American cowboy culture. At times the collection seemed like Ralph Lauren's anniversary collection gone wrong. Where a look couldve been a knock out, a craft store trimming was added to downgrade it. The black peak lapel blazer and classic trouser were flawlessly made, but the pink bow on the lapel seemed like an afterthought. The same goes with black silk ball gown and the black floor length gown. The denim suits and jeans looks should've been edited out.
Music
So you know this theme of Lone Star Cowboy & The Texas Rose that inspired Zang Toi? He had the music to match. The show started out with Save a Horse by Big and Rich. I thought, Brilliant, hes mocking America's country culture. A large portion of the crowd somehow knew the lyrics to the song. A large heavily made up older blond woman was "riding the saddle" in her seat while swinging an invisible lasso. Was I at a New York fashion show? From there, the music switched to Main Theme of The Magnificent Seven. Finally, for the last 15 minutes of the show--I shit you not--this is by no means an exaggeration, since I Shazam App'd this song twice--once at 9:39 and then again at 9:55--and it was still playing as the show ended. Show goers were driven mad by Giant by Dimitri Tominkin. At one point the security guard saw me using my Shazam app and asked "is this still the same song?" Indeed it was. As I exited he said "We'll all need therapy after this." Click on the link and give it a listen, just for a minute and imagine hearing it for 15 minutes straight at about 90 decibels.
People and Scene
I don't even want to talk about how packed this show was. All week, I have not seen one single tent show in The Studio venue this crowded. People were packed in the way KFC or Taco Bell stuffs every food-like substance on its menu into a one bowl fraken-food concoction.
Lovable designers Robert Tagliapietra and Jeffrey Costello can often be seen dressed similarly in plaid shirts and suspenders, a burly pair often not what most picture when seeing such feminine collections. The two met at Parsons and formed Costello Tagliapeitra and sent thier first runway collection down the catwalk in 2005. The CFDA member designers have been slowly gaining acclaim since and even snagged a collaboration with the Japanese based brand Uniqlo.
Colors: nude, gray, brown, blush
Materials: georgette, jersey
Loved Looks
Photo: WWD/John Aquino
Photo: WWD/John Aquino
Photo: WWD/John Aquino
Costello Tagliapietra's collection was inspired by women who want to dress up, but without too much effort. It was the answer to today's casual society: down with velour pants suits! Jeans and tees are okay, but there is a time and place for everything, they say. Most of this collection was beautifully executed with a refined dresses for a woman who wants to get noticed, but doesn't want to be gawked at. Hits include the brown off the shoulder dress with draping, asymmetric sheath dress and printed off the shoulder dress.
Unloved Looks
Photo: WWD/John Aquino
Not unlike other designers this season, Costello Tagliapietra tended to go a bit overboard on draping. I think that the majority of women (and I am a woman) do not want to dress in a sack-like garment. Though the garments weren't completely unlovable. I did find the brown structure shoulder top and the pea green skirt to be a gross color combination.
MAC & MILK Studios shows have been giving the tents a run for their Mercedes money. With ample space and a "u" shaped runway, the crowd was able to catch every look that came out. If you weren't invited, the show broadcast live on MilkMade, Milk's site that covers the shows that happened there this week. More and more designer's are turning away from celebrity based arena-rock style shows, and evidenced by the people here, this duo shared the same sentiment. Though, designers know that famous faces will pull in a bit of extra attention, so this show was not without Leigh Lezark and other quasi-celebs, most likely personal friends of the designers.
