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Sep 9, 2011 11:35AM

New York Spring 2012 Fashion Week Officially Begins: Designers on the Radar

As you are breaking out long pants, sweaters and coats, Jamar Graham, my trusty correspondent and are checking out the collections at New York Fashion Week Spring 2012.

Our fashion week schedule is full of sophomore and even unheard of designers. These are the best shows for us, as its always exciting to see the next up and coming batch of fashion designers. Not to sugar coat, but sometimes we witness a few that need to go back to the drawing board. But, that doesn't mean we don't catch a few shows that knock our socks off --and then we later gloat "I saw her/his first show!"

These are the designers on our radar this season:

Sally LaPointe

Sally Lapointe Spring 2011 Debut, Photo: Dan Lecca

In Spring 2011, Sally Lapointe debuted, did her own thing and stood out among what seems to be an ever growing fashion week (seriously, when did the definition of "week" turn into ten days). Her signature designs are emotional, structural and flawlessly constructed. Oh, and you may have heard, Lady Gaga is a fan. Why wouldn't she be? Lapointe is what is lacking on the American design scene when it comes to runway shows and new lines, and that is a fearless experimental drive to create garments according to her standards without toning it down for the mass market.

Parkchoonmoo

There are many "o's" in Demoo Parkchoonmoo's name. As is there was in her audience with her first show in US for Concept Korea, a collective of Korean designers who showed during the Fall 2011 season of New York Fashion Week. With an industrial design and fashion education, her designs reflect her knowledge with fluid, geometric shapes. She's new to us, but she's been on the forefront of Korean fashion since 1988 with numerous awards to show for it.

Jen Kao

This Kansas native is not brand new. She showed her first collection back in 2008. She moved to New York in 1999 to study studio art and from there developed an interest in textile design. Her collections often include feminine, flowing pieces, constructed leathers and some of the most unique knits I've seen. Her mix of cool and lady-like is something to see more of. She keeps getting better.

Norman Ambrose

Many times new designers lean towards the edgy or downtown side. Not Norman Ambrose. His first presentation for New York Fashion week last Fall was all uptown with tailored coats, long gowns and sophisticated separates. His show landed him on many ones to watch lists for this season. And, yes, he should stay there. His clothes are already on par with the veterans like Salvatore Ferragamo, Oscar de la Renta and Ralph Lauren. It only has to get better from here.

Honorable Mentions:

We're not going to lie. We don't know much about these designers. But we are not going to miss these shows because we are tossing the dice and hoping for something breathtaking, new and exciting.

Katya Leonovich

Bridal? Hmm. Does this mean there is no more Bridal Market Week?

Rolando Santana

The press release says we will fall in love as if we were in Florence on cobble stone streets. Plus he collaborated with Manolo Blahnik for this show. Sounds good.

Angelina Mata Atelier

She's from Texas and that in itself is a reason to go. It couldn't be as bad as the designer who blasted Giant by Dimitri Tominkin on repeat. Please, don't do that to us again.

Christine Alcalay

The invite looked colorful and performance art-ish. Okay. Why not.

 

 

 

 

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Sep 13, 2010 7:43PM

New York Fashion Week Spring 2011 - Thuy

Thuy

Thuy (pronounced Thwee) Diep was born in Vietnam to a family of tailors. She studied at the famed Parsons School of Design, but not before getting her degree at Brown University. Thuy's entrepreneurial spirit combined with a knack for design led her to launch her line back in 2006.

Colors: Cream, Orange, Yellow

Materials: silk dupioni, silk, cotton, sequins

Loved Looks

Photos: WWD

Thuys looks were a combination of hip and vintage. Many reminded me of 1920's sportswear.  Women who would wear this collection are looking for dresses that aren't too off the wall, but are not run of the mill. This is where Thuy's strengths lie. She can take an ordinary skirt, add some raffia-like detail and it becomes a more stylish piece. With her use of separates in many looks, many of these pieces can stand alone in any woman's closet. Her jewel toned sequin floral dress and tank is great for the younger, more contemporary crowd.

Unloved Looks

Photos: WWD

The perforated cotton pieces: shirts, skirts, dresses, tended to look repetitious. Though the pieces varied, the fabric did not.  Some of the color-block body conscious dress reminded me of early Proenza Schouler. While it shows Thuy has great technical skills, its hard for any designer to do anything remotely similar due to the immense success Proenza for Target dress and the runway version.

Music

It was a girl anthem soundtrack with a cover of David Bowie's Ashes to Ashes by Warpaint, Contact by Brigitte Bardot and Here Sometimes by Blonde Redhead.

People and Scene

The show was held at the Audi car showroom on Park Avenue. I have to say it, this venue was fug. Between the portable trade show curtains and the mechanical car part posters, it looked like, well, a car showroom. I'm not sure what the correlation is between car sales and fashion. Mercedes Benz Fashion Week and now Audi? New York City has an efficient public transportation system for us market editor/assistant/bloggers who can't afford a car, let alone luxury cars.  That said, kudos to the seating arrangements. There were bleachers for standing tickets and plenty of benches for all who attended to see the collection without having to strain.

To Gift or Not to Gift: There were Audi brochures laying around if anyone was interested.

 

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Mar 21, 2010 2:26PM

Spring Minimalism: Fresh Air!

Now that the weather is getting warmer, I've opened all my windows and let the cool breeze flow through my once stuffy railroad apartment.

If you've been following you know that I've been slowly rolling out the spring trends.  Sitting by an open window with the sun shining and the feeling the slight drift of air has inspired me to cover another hit on the runway for the season: Minimalism.

I'm a fan, myself. There are those of us that go all out, but then there are those of us that love a well cut down low beautiful silhouette.  Designers featured muted pastels in pink and blue. Theses colors and flirty nudes and crisp whites in simple, flowing feminine shapes provide a wave of fresh air.

Jen Kao; Yigal Azrouel

Andy and Debb; A Detacher

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