Fashion Funhouse Emporium

Chris Benz

He calls himself "the prince of color" a play on the "prince of darkness" obviously. Quirky, cool and fun designer Chris Benz doesn't do silly clothes though. Raised in Seattle with an ability to translate what he sees into well-crafted sportswear, Benz has been showing his own original take on women's clothing since he started out on his own. He's only been showing since 2007, but his collections were revealed with critical acclaim. Still not a household name, it doesn't seem to matter to his following who demand something different from their everyday clothes.

Colors: White, black, orange, yellow, green and blue

Materials: Silks, cotton blends, beading.

Loved Looks:

View Full Collection on NyMag

This collection was fun and full of color but as always with Chris Benz, its not to the level of absurdity. Hes one of the few originals in American sportswear showing at New York Fashion Week because its anything but boring. I loved the Alejandro Ingelmo collaboration cute sneakers paired with skirts. For those of us on fashion shoots and are our feet all day (and I'm sure other working fashionable city girls) any promotion of comfortable footwear is welcome. Its hard to pull of a massive mix of graphic prints and bold color, but its done right with the circle black and white pencil skirt and the color pop blouse. A mixed print kimono style dress can go day to evening soiree easily. Baggy pants with a orange stripe shirt and sneakers work for that casual, but stylish girl.

Unloved Looks:

Not "unloved" per say, but I don't know how to feel about the all beaded kelly green jacket and skirt. My first thought or word association was "Astro-turf." If he would've glued a gold ball on it, it may have ended up on Lady Gaga. It still might, actually.

People, Music and Scene:

On the other side of Lincoln Center, in Avery Fischer Hall models lined up in the hallway close to the balcony overlooking the rest of the locale. The DJ in the corner was spinning tunes I recognized as being of that Warholain Factory vibe. Lou Reed's Vicious and Peter Sarstedt's Where do you Go To played while models stood still on crates. I didn't see Chris Benz with his pink hair lurking anywhere, but there were a few recognizable faces. Johnny Wier (who I later saw get bum-rushed by a woman while he was entering the tents --"I love you. You're my favorite skater" she said. TV personality and design pro Nate Berkus, Kelly Osborne, Jordin Sparks all came to lend their support. I caught a few socialites and editors as well. A nice low key presentation besides the celeb-hawkers, most enjoyed the bar on the balcony.

Four out of four Karl Lagerfelds

Tracy Reese

Jamar, Fashion Funhouse Emporium's fashion week correspondent is often snagged and photographed by street photographers for his unique and edgy style. He headed to the Tracy Reese show for me. He gives us his rundown after the Introduction below.

When it comes to overlapping shows, I'm glad to have another team member to cover shows that must be seen. As for this show, Tracy Reese, he was thrilled at what he saw.

Tracy Reese is one of the more commercially successful shows we get to attend over here at the Emporium. And as it goes, we promote fashion for everyone, so this was right up our alley. The Detroit native, launched her timeless cheerfully feminine line in 1998. Since, she has designed off-shoots like Plenty by Tracy Reese, a more casual everyday wear, and Frock! by Tracy Reese for those who covet just dresses. Her staying power in the fashion industry is because of her distinct point of view. She knows who she is dressing- the woman who wants easy, yet individual chic. The CFDA board member continues to expand with shoes, and even home candles.

Colors: coral and blue, pearl white, light greens, neon oranges, and black

Materials: Gauzy linens, silk jerseys, a few heavy knits, lace, and techno-fabrics.

Loved Looks:

View full collection on Style.com

On Sept. 11 a decade ago, Reese was supposed to show at New York Fashion Week for the first time. She said she was honored to be included on the 10th anniversary of the terrorist attacks. She said "At the end of the day, New York is unlike any other city in the world. Everyone worked together to pick ourselves back up."

As with most of the collections coming out of New York Fashion Week, Tracey Reese was all about feminine clothing with a sporty take on ease and comfort.  She showed her collection with matching hats, parasols, and shoes, which added a great element visually. Sheer, neon, athletica, outwears, florals, lightweight leather, and of course short shorts were all the trends presented in her spring collection.

Unloved Looks:

There were a few prom and homecoming dresses that were a miss in the line up, but that's part of what she does, right?  She's contemporary and it sells.

People, Music and Scene:

It was a celeb-packed Lincoln Center show with Solange Knowles, Jamie-Lynn Sigler, Aisha Tyler, Angela Basset. There were soap stars, high profile stylists and models. June Ambrose and  Mary Alice Stephenson added some strictly fashion cred to the front row. The tree back drop added to the pleasant lady village vibe of the collection.

Rating:

Four out of four Karl Lagerfelds.

Nicholas K

Jamar, Fashion Funhouse Emporium's fashion week correspondent is often snagged and photographed by street photographers for his unique and edgy style. He headed to the Nicholas K show for me. He gives us his rundown after the Introduction below.

Nicholas and Christopher Kunz founded Nicholas K in 2003. The brother-sister team, unlike other many other newer designers have paid their dues and learned the ropes before stepping out to found their own line. Nicholas (yes,she) worked with Calvin Klein, DKNY, Polo Ralph Lauren, Coach and Nautica. Christopher K oversees the business aspect of the line with his MBA from Eller Graduate School of Management in Marketing and Finance. With stores in America, Canada, Asia, and the Middle East, it seems thier slightly funky wardrobe staples are staying steady.

Colors: Metallic,white, gray, brown, off-white, sand, blue, olive, lavender, violet, and black.

Materials: Suede, tech-metallic blends, cotton, jersey blends, and silk

Loved Looks:

View full collection at NYmag.com

This season the designers sent down what I [Jamar] call post-apocalyptic-gypsy. The details of the collection included head scarves for the girls and desert-walking draped layers for the guys. Shoes completed the looks with platform wedges for the girls and laced oxfords for the guys. The fringe bracelets added to a few outfits will most likely set a trend for the spring/summer season. Nicholas K paired mesh leggings with cotton and silk cotton jersey, suedes, cotton poplin, and tech-metallic woven nylon materials that gave a instant touch of sport that we have seen a lot so far this season. Dresses were bias cut, trench coats are multi-functional, tanks and shorts are staples for each look, light weight scarves are draped around the neck three to four times giving into the effortless cool look.

Unloved Looks:

If we have to put something here, and be over critical, some looks were similar to the aesthetic of All Saints Spitafields. Then again, this can be said about any designer who stays with the rock-chic basics.

People Music and Scene:

An early day starting at 9AM on day 1 at Lincoln Center, through no fault of the designer or the promoters, these are hard shows to fill. As Amber is afriad of daylight, I got dibs on this show. You can bet many die-hard fashion fans who stood in line were able to grab some of those empty seats. That doesn't mean they didn't do thier best to get some name drops in the door. Actor and Musician Eric West, no relation to Kanye sat front row. Of course, self-made celebrity and public relations diva Kelly Curtone wouldn't miss a show her firm puts on.

Rating:

Three out of four Karl Lagerfelds.

Nanette Lepore

Nanette Lepore is one of the few veteran designers we get to see. She began her own label in 1992 with a mere $5000 loan from her abstract painter father.  Since, her line has grown into a world-wide brand with boutiques in New York, Los Angles, Las Vegas, Tokyo and London. This season marks a return to her playful feminine designs that she became known for.

Colors: Birights- citron, orange, green, blue

Materials: Knits, canvas, lace, cotton

Loved Looks:

In a season so far of bright and neon colors, Nanette took the idea and ran the furthest with it. Perhaps she's feeling revitalized by her twelve year old daughter, Violet, who sat front row in her adorable neon yellow Doc Martens. Keeping in mind that her core customer is young women in the contemporary market, the showcase was a brilliant display of fun garments. While a piece or two may translate to the downtown girls, its the uptown crowd that Lepore designs for. Its as if she's dressing daughters whose mothers are wearing Oscar and Carolina.  A monochromatic highlighter yellow blazer and skirt is preppy and modern. A young star heading to the Nickelodeon Kid's Choice awards can wear the blue lagoon knit dress and not look as if she's Britney gone bad. For the Gossip Girl types, there are plenty of cute dresses and separates. For the older set, if the thought of head to toe neon is terrifying, the blouses, handbags and shoes are a more tame neon trend addition to your wardrobe.

Unloved Looks:

If you're not the type to head to the beach house for the summer, there wasn't much for you.

People, Music and Scene:

Sam Bisbee and his live band, clad in neon shirts played while the models shined thier light on the runway.  As with all Lincoln Center shows, the random celebrity factor was there. Stanley Tucci, Kelly Rutherford, Ariana Huffington, Tony Soprano's sister Aida Tuturro, former MTV VJ Karen Duffy, the fairy from the Christmas movie Scrooged and Austin from way back to Project Runway's first season.  Every seat, including those way up in peanut heaven had one of Sam Bisbee's CD's on it.  At the end of the show Aida Tuturrro (who looked thrilled to be there) got up and danced with Nanette Lepore while the band continued to play. Mickey Boardman interrupted for a hug. The bright lights, the neon clothes and the live band all added to the pick-me-up atmosphere. Maybe Im getting older and less cynical, but it was all very adorable.

Rating:

Four out of Four Karl Lagerfelds.

Jen Kao

Inspired by lucid and paralytic dreams, Jen Kao brings more of her signature street style with easy refinement to the runway. With five seasons of showing at Fashion Week and one resort collection under her belt, she is working a bit more with pattern than in the past. The major differences each season, while still keeping true to her style is the reason why we want to continue to see her evolve.

Colors: orange, ivory, pink, blue, lilac, pastels

Materials: Jersey, chiffon, lace, knit, organza, hemp, cotton

Loved Looks:

View Full Collection on Style.com

Jen Kao's strength lies in the intricate knits and laces that she creates. The papaya orange dress will look great for a spring night out or even on a young starlet on the red carpet. For those of us who run around during our day jobs, the mermaid printed shirt dress paired with adorable high tops are perfect for a get-up-and go look. The blue lace shirt dress is an easy change from day to night. The versatility of her separates are what makes Kao's collection retail ready, while the addition of paper origami elements by The Paper Cut Project made her collection show ready.

Unloved Looks:

The sneakers didn't work with everything, though I wish they did.

People, Music and Scene:

The music was listed as Albert Swarm on the program. Shown at Lincoln Center's studio, there were still plenty of seats left to fill when the standing line was let in. As always with Lincoln Center, there are the people who are there to be seen, celebrity chasers and those who are there for the clothes. Socialite and jack-of-all trades Becka Diamond sat front row. Did I mention Micheal Stipe from REM was there? I sat across the row from him, and I had no idea. He was incognito with a hat, moustache and sunglasses, looking way older than I remember him from the days when I played his song Crush with Eyeliner ad nausea as a college radio D.J. That's a great song. Stand, on the other hand...

Rating:

Three out of four Karl Lagerfelds

As you are breaking out long pants, sweaters and coats, Jamar Graham, my trusty correspondent and are checking out the collections at New York Fashion Week Spring 2012.

Our fashion week schedule is full of sophomore and even unheard of designers. These are the best shows for us, as its always exciting to see the next up and coming batch of fashion designers. Not to sugar coat, but sometimes we witness a few that need to go back to the drawing board. But, that doesn't mean we don't catch a few shows that knock our socks off --and then we later gloat "I saw her/his first show!"

These are the designers on our radar this season:

Sally LaPointe

Sally Lapointe Spring 2011 Debut, Photo: Dan Lecca

In Spring 2011, Sally Lapointe debuted, did her own thing and stood out among what seems to be an ever growing fashion week (seriously, when did the definition of "week" turn into ten days). Her signature designs are emotional, structural and flawlessly constructed. Oh, and you may have heard, Lady Gaga is a fan. Why wouldn't she be? Lapointe is what is lacking on the American design scene when it comes to runway shows and new lines, and that is a fearless experimental drive to create garments according to her standards without toning it down for the mass market.

Parkchoonmoo

There are many "o's" in Demoo Parkchoonmoo's name. As is there was in her audience with her first show in US for Concept Korea, a collective of Korean designers who showed during the Fall 2011 season of New York Fashion Week. With an industrial design and fashion education, her designs reflect her knowledge with fluid, geometric shapes. She's new to us, but she's been on the forefront of Korean fashion since 1988 with numerous awards to show for it.

Jen Kao

This Kansas native is not brand new. She showed her first collection back in 2008. She moved to New York in 1999 to study studio art and from there developed an interest in textile design. Her collections often include feminine, flowing pieces, constructed leathers and some of the most unique knits I've seen. Her mix of cool and lady-like is something to see more of. She keeps getting better.

Norman Ambrose

Many times new designers lean towards the edgy or downtown side. Not Norman Ambrose. His first presentation for New York Fashion week last Fall was all uptown with tailored coats, long gowns and sophisticated separates. His show landed him on many ones to watch lists for this season. And, yes, he should stay there. His clothes are already on par with the veterans like Salvatore Ferragamo, Oscar de la Renta and Ralph Lauren. It only has to get better from here.

Honorable Mentions:

We're not going to lie. We don't know much about these designers. But we are not going to miss these shows because we are tossing the dice and hoping for something breathtaking, new and exciting.

Katya Leonovich

Bridal? Hmm. Does this mean there is no more Bridal Market Week?

Rolando Santana

The press release says we will fall in love as if we were in Florence on cobble stone streets. Plus he collaborated with Manolo Blahnik for this show. Sounds good.

Angelina Mata Atelier

She's from Texas and that in itself is a reason to go. It couldn't be as bad as the designer who blasted Giant by Dimitri Tominkin on repeat. Please, don't do that to us again.

Christine Alcalay

The invite looked colorful and performance art-ish. Okay. Why not.