Fashion Funhouse Emporium

Charlotte Ronson

Jamar, Fashion Funhouse Emporium's fashion week correspondent is often snagged and photographed by street photographers for his unique and edgy style. He headed to the Charlotte Ronson show for me. He gives us his rundown after the Introduction below.

Charlotte Ronson has a loyal following. As mentioned every season, her price points never teeter from where she started combining quality with her signature bohemian style.  Recently its not just America that's been showing her love. In the Fall of 2010, Ronson signed a deal to open stores throughout China, Hong Kong, Japan, and Macau. She even staged her first runway show in China.

Colors: blue, black, taupe, grey, red, ivory, silver, orange rust, fuchsia, mint.

Materials: denim, cotton, linen, jersey, lace, chiffon

Loved Looks:

View Full Collection on Style.com

Ronson paired soft cotton linens and knits cotton jersey, lace and soft silk chiffon along side denim to ultimately tie the collection together.  There was a distinct prairie feel to it. Like other designers who just don't want to be too sweet, she had to add "edge" with the belts used as choker collars. The crochet details also seemed to raise a few eyebrows, in a good way though. Midi length skirts were ramped as well as cute little lace dresses with cropped knit sweaters over them.

Unloved Looks:

Some of the elements of the collection can come off as done before (cough*overalls*cough) especially in Ronson's past seasons. Though, that doesn't mean they wont sell come spring. Stick with what works.

People, Music and Scene:

Lincoln Center shows are always a frenzy of press, random celebrities, and fashion laggards, and that's no exception for the Charlotte Ronson show. Every season its a madhouse with as many celebs they can manage to pack in. Kelly Osborn and Angela Simmons looking all BFF (Dad Russell was there too.) Joy Bryant, Audrina Partridge, Elie Goulding and Nickly Hilton sat front row. Some chicks from SNL were there: Nasid  Pedrad and Abby Elliot (daughter of  Woogie from Something about Mary- Chris Elliot). Socialite Peaches Geldof sitting next to a bored looking man friend. Also, whats A Charlotte Ronson show without a family aspect? Mom Ann Dexter Jones was there looking lovely as was half-sister Annabelle. Samantha also took part, although safely tucked behind the decks.

Rating:

Two out of four Karl Lagerfelds

Nanette Lepore

Nanette Lepore is one of the few veteran designers we get to see. She began her own label in 1992 with a mere $5000 loan from her abstract painter father.  Since, her line has grown into a world-wide brand with boutiques in New York, Los Angles, Las Vegas, Tokyo and London. This season marks a return to her playful feminine designs that she became known for.

Colors: Birights- citron, orange, green, blue

Materials: Knits, canvas, lace, cotton

Loved Looks:

In a season so far of bright and neon colors, Nanette took the idea and ran the furthest with it. Perhaps she's feeling revitalized by her twelve year old daughter, Violet, who sat front row in her adorable neon yellow Doc Martens. Keeping in mind that her core customer is young women in the contemporary market, the showcase was a brilliant display of fun garments. While a piece or two may translate to the downtown girls, its the uptown crowd that Lepore designs for. Its as if she's dressing daughters whose mothers are wearing Oscar and Carolina.  A monochromatic highlighter yellow blazer and skirt is preppy and modern. A young star heading to the Nickelodeon Kid's Choice awards can wear the blue lagoon knit dress and not look as if she's Britney gone bad. For the Gossip Girl types, there are plenty of cute dresses and separates. For the older set, if the thought of head to toe neon is terrifying, the blouses, handbags and shoes are a more tame neon trend addition to your wardrobe.

Unloved Looks:

If you're not the type to head to the beach house for the summer, there wasn't much for you.

People, Music and Scene:

Sam Bisbee and his live band, clad in neon shirts played while the models shined thier light on the runway.  As with all Lincoln Center shows, the random celebrity factor was there. Stanley Tucci, Kelly Rutherford, Ariana Huffington, Tony Soprano's sister Aida Tuturro, former MTV VJ Karen Duffy, the fairy from the Christmas movie Scrooged and Austin from way back to Project Runway's first season.  Every seat, including those way up in peanut heaven had one of Sam Bisbee's CD's on it.  At the end of the show Aida Tuturrro (who looked thrilled to be there) got up and danced with Nanette Lepore while the band continued to play. Mickey Boardman interrupted for a hug. The bright lights, the neon clothes and the live band all added to the pick-me-up atmosphere. Maybe Im getting older and less cynical, but it was all very adorable.

Rating:

Four out of Four Karl Lagerfelds.

Gretchen Jones

Jamar, Fashion Funhouse Emporium's fashion week correspondent is often snagged and photographed by street photographers for his unique and edgy style. He headed to the Gretchen Jones presentation for me. He gives us his rundown after the Introduction below.

Gretchen Jones came to reality TV fame on Project Runway as season 8 winner. Tim Gunn thought she was the show's bully, but Micheal Kors and Nina Garcia thought she earned the win. Her show invite came in the form of a court summons and her models stood as if they were in a police line up. I'm thinking this designer is trying to tell us she's being unfairly charged? Color Block separates on the cell block...okay I'll quit with the puns and get on with it.

Now, with her feet planted in Brooklyn, she's setting out to be known as Gretchen Jones the designer. She plans to stay true to her rural roots with the materials she chooses to work with: wool, bamboo, and organic cottons. She's also a member of the Save the Garment District alliance which supports ethical practices.

Colors: Orange, blue, black

Materials: Denim, cotton

Loved Looks:

The collection had a cool vibe, much like the people attending. Precisely draped dresses and separates with an asymmetrical cut were layered over each other. High waisted pants with front bow ties and chambray and pin stripe denims stood out as did intentionally unfinished chiffon. All of these elements  infused the collection giving it a bit more...ugh I hate this word, edge.

Most of the collection piece names were named after western and Indian spirituality themes like Medusa's head dresses, chevron patterns, Dragons blood gowns, and Lions tongue blouses. Don't worry, it was just the names not actually the design of the pieces.

The collection was dedicated to Gretchen's father Robert Bewley. A nice collection indeed for a Project Runway alumni with a bad rep.

Unloved Looks:

There is a question as to which market these clothes will belong to. They seem a bit refined for the contemporary market, but not meant for the luxury market. Obviously with the safe designs, she's hoping to sell some clothes.

People, Music and Scene:

Something was in the air here and it was rock and roll. Every girl looked like a Becka Diamond rip-off. Attendees were all sporting heavy duty rock-inspired outfits, even myself. Vintage rock tees and caftans, leather vests, and jackets were all ripped and reconstructed (FYI it was about 83 degrees on Thursday during the day), skinny jeans and about every style of boot you can imagine.

*Jamar knew who Becka Diamond was. Hes definitely cooler than me.

Rating:

Two out of four Karl Lagerfelds

Mimi Plange

Jamar, Fashion Funhouse Emporium's fashion week correspondent is often snagged and photographed by street photographers for his unique and edgy style. He headed to the Mimi Plange Presentation for me. He gives us his rundown after the bio.

Mimi Plange strives to design clothes that reflect the mood of a women in garments that are both special and timeless. With a BA in Architecture and a minor in dramatic Art, like many others with similar backgrounds, she turned to fashion design.  She worked with both Rachel Roy and Patricia Field before setting out on her own.

Colors: pink, pastel, white, green, yellow

Materials: sequins, satin, silk

Loved Looks:

View full collection at WWD

Plange took to juxtaposing large scale Eastern floral prints with the traditional dress of the Himba, and the Victorian dress of the Herero. The result was  feminine and strong. The tailoring showed her expertise with clean lines with slightly aggressive shapes. The couture details based on traditional hand crafted garments made for something modern for that special sophisticated woman that does Mimi Plange justice. Her collaboration with  Manolo Blahnik showcased along side her collection featuring an amazing nude sandals with leather cut outs and leather tassels, as well as a silk floral beaded bootie that could stand on its on.

Unloved Looks:

Next to the amazing floral looks, a plain pink sheath dress gets passed right by.

People, Music and Scene:

This presentation was relatively low key, that is if you didn't cross paths with Andre Leon Tally and Rachel Zoe, both who are putting thier support behind the new designer. Held at Asian Society on the Upper East Side of NY, the collection was presented beneath a beautiful floral installation.

Rating:

Two and Three Quarter Karl Lagerfelds out of Four

Libertine

This is the second season back for Libertine with Jonhson Hartig flying solo. Harting founded his own line in 2000.  In 2001 after meeting Cindy Greene through mutual friends, she sent him a shirt with graphics. The shirt generated much interest with party-goers. So of course the next step was collaboration. Hartig reconstructed the clothes while Greene did the silk-screen prints. The duo soon found themselves the new cool kids of design with write-ups in everything from Domino and Time to Vogue both American and International editions.  The CFDA finalists snagged one of Target's first designer collaborations and the high-end line was sold in elite department stores around the world.  In 2009, Greene left to pursue other creative endeavors. After a brief hiatus, Hartig's vision of Libertine is selling in stores like Bergdorf Goodman and Harvey Nichols after a crowd pleasing Fall 2011 color graphic collection.

Colors: Black, white, cream, ivory, blue

Materials: Recycled

Loved Looks:

View full collection on nymag.com

One could argue that since Libertine revamps and alters found clothing that its not fashion design in the traditional sense. Though what is captivating about each look is the placement and the mix of graphics. While some of these re-dos are not for the meek, the pieces are eye candy. It was hard to stop examining as the models passed. Vintage clothing is a canvas for Hartig and the spring presentation was a far more themed and cohesive than those of the past excluding Fall 2011. Only a unique and exclusive clientele has access to the graffiti circle suit and painted silk printed dress. Its worked in the past for Libertine.

Unloved Looks:

For those expecting a completely different collection than Fall 2011 may be disappointed. There were a few people in the front row that didn't crack a smile when the "Tax the Rich More" tee came down the catwalk. I guess the humor depends on which way you lean on the political pendulum.

People, Music and Scene:

Fleetwood Mac remixed to a dance beat played while models did spins, high-fived and danced down the runway. And they had smiles. Models were smiling, people! Drinks were served in this low key Exit Art venue courtesy of Skyy Vodka and Lorenza Rose. Benches surrounded the runway for those of us whose feet needed a rest after hiking all the way to 10th Avenue. This presentation combined the excitement of runway and the no bull aspects of a presentation.

Rating:

Two and a Quarter Karl Lagerfelds out of Four

Buckler

Designer Andrew Buckler makes clothes for the guy who wants to add a bit of bloke to traditional men's sportswear. Since the British invasion of Buckler in 2001 with a single pair of jeans, the line expanded into full menswear with stores in Toronto, London and New York. Again this season he took to the streets, literally on Gansevroot Street in Manhattan to show his line.

Colors: Gray, black, blue, ivory

Materials: Cotton, leather, denim

Loved Looks:

View Full Collection at GQ.com

When styling menswear, its often difficult to find a line that is younger, and less boring. Buckler's clothes are great when it comes to men dressing like men and not just high fashion experiments. Though a striped hooded sweatshirt and matching harem sweats may be too much for some guys, piece by piece, every guy can find something a little special in Buckler's line. The tuxedo jackets were fantastic with strategically placed pockets and inverted "v" cut. An essential leather blazer can be dressed down with a pair of his dark denim. If to make comparison's to other designers, the line is similar to Varvatos without the pompousness.

Unloved Looks:

If anything, the stone-wash gray denim would be a hard sell for most sloppy straight guy clients.

People, Scene and Music:

Admiting that there was a bit of bitching going on because it was hot, once I realized that closing down an entire street provides excellent visability, I was fine with that. At one point, I sat on the curb which I supposed would be "front row." My ass felt as if it was going to catch fire since the blazing sun pounded that very same pavement all day, but like I mentioned, I saw all the clothes in detail. I expected more of a crowd outside, but here's the thing I noticed. It's menswear. The construction workers who were eagerly standing on a near by roof disappeared once the first male model came strutting down the street to Prodigy's Fire Starter. So yes, I think that eliminated much of the would-be crowds that were hoping to see breasts through a sheer shirt. But the ladies in the crowd were impressed --as the pretty young girl next to me said "hubba hubba hubba" as one model passed by. Last, what is particularly brilliant about showing on the street is that you are able to envision the looks on that guy in his natural habitat--walking on the streets of New York.

Rating:

Three out of four Karl Lagerfelds.

As you are breaking out long pants, sweaters and coats, Jamar Graham, my trusty correspondent and are checking out the collections at New York Fashion Week Spring 2012.

Our fashion week schedule is full of sophomore and even unheard of designers. These are the best shows for us, as its always exciting to see the next up and coming batch of fashion designers. Not to sugar coat, but sometimes we witness a few that need to go back to the drawing board. But, that doesn't mean we don't catch a few shows that knock our socks off --and then we later gloat "I saw her/his first show!"

These are the designers on our radar this season:

Sally LaPointe

Sally Lapointe Spring 2011 Debut, Photo: Dan Lecca

In Spring 2011, Sally Lapointe debuted, did her own thing and stood out among what seems to be an ever growing fashion week (seriously, when did the definition of "week" turn into ten days). Her signature designs are emotional, structural and flawlessly constructed. Oh, and you may have heard, Lady Gaga is a fan. Why wouldn't she be? Lapointe is what is lacking on the American design scene when it comes to runway shows and new lines, and that is a fearless experimental drive to create garments according to her standards without toning it down for the mass market.

Parkchoonmoo

There are many "o's" in Demoo Parkchoonmoo's name. As is there was in her audience with her first show in US for Concept Korea, a collective of Korean designers who showed during the Fall 2011 season of New York Fashion Week. With an industrial design and fashion education, her designs reflect her knowledge with fluid, geometric shapes. She's new to us, but she's been on the forefront of Korean fashion since 1988 with numerous awards to show for it.

Jen Kao

This Kansas native is not brand new. She showed her first collection back in 2008. She moved to New York in 1999 to study studio art and from there developed an interest in textile design. Her collections often include feminine, flowing pieces, constructed leathers and some of the most unique knits I've seen. Her mix of cool and lady-like is something to see more of. She keeps getting better.

Norman Ambrose

Many times new designers lean towards the edgy or downtown side. Not Norman Ambrose. His first presentation for New York Fashion week last Fall was all uptown with tailored coats, long gowns and sophisticated separates. His show landed him on many ones to watch lists for this season. And, yes, he should stay there. His clothes are already on par with the veterans like Salvatore Ferragamo, Oscar de la Renta and Ralph Lauren. It only has to get better from here.

Honorable Mentions:

We're not going to lie. We don't know much about these designers. But we are not going to miss these shows because we are tossing the dice and hoping for something breathtaking, new and exciting.

Katya Leonovich

Bridal? Hmm. Does this mean there is no more Bridal Market Week?

Rolando Santana

The press release says we will fall in love as if we were in Florence on cobble stone streets. Plus he collaborated with Manolo Blahnik for this show. Sounds good.

Angelina Mata Atelier

She's from Texas and that in itself is a reason to go. It couldn't be as bad as the designer who blasted Giant by Dimitri Tominkin on repeat. Please, don't do that to us again.

Christine Alcalay

The invite looked colorful and performance art-ish. Okay. Why not.

Vivienne Tam is one of the more established shows you'll see here. Her runway show was one of the first I ever attended. As an intern back in 2006, when swag bags made it past the first three rows, I was so excited to walk out of her show blown away by the beautifully feminine garments how (and with a red floral embroidered make-up bag that I still use 5 years later).

Tam's Eastern inspired clothing hasn't changed much since 1994, proving that she knows what works and sells for the woman she designs for. She started an Asian inspired craze in which other designers tried to imitate. Some of the pieces from her early collection were given a home in my hometown of Pittsburgh at the Andy Warhol museum, among others like FIT. What has changed is that she is now a lifestyle brand.

Tam has always been on the cutting edge of technology.  Long before she collaborated with HP on the clutch book, she designed phone cases for Motorola she's partnered with Stardolls in a virtual online clothing boutique for teens and has participated in designing the costumes for an animated film.

She's also established herself as a personality having been a judge on The Fashion Show and Project runway and is an author of the book "China Chic."

Colors: navy, black, shades of blue and a dash of red

Materials: wool, tweed, chiffon, silk, knits

Loved Looks

View the full collection on Style.com

Where some critics may feel she pulls out too many of the stops, I didn't mind so much. Its her thing. If you can do multiple back flips without falling, then why not? Though I suppose showing off can tire some. Her knits and simple crop pants were main stream ready, but have details that make them a bit more interesting than your average department store sweater. But then again, if you own your own stores around the world, then why not get crazy with the embellishments?

Unloved Looks

Some pieces went a bit too crazy to the point of confusion. Sometimes one less element is a good thing.

People, Scene, Music

The show was at one of the larger venues in the Lincoln Center tents. I wondered why it was so large, but then again, Vivienne Tam embraced bloggers long before designers thought it was cute to have Tavi and Bryanboy attend their shows. Yes, Bryanboy was there, along with a contestant from The Fashion Show, who was telling his story with teary eyes to the girl in the seat next to him. Model Petra Nemcova was there, surrounded by photographers. An older lady in a crocheted vest next to me asked if I knew who she was as if hosting some fashion show celeb spotting tour. I pretended I didn't speak English. Kidding. I told her. Angela Simmons daughter of Rev Run of Run DMC, Reshma Shetty, Eric West, Nigel Barker, Sisalee Lopez  and one of the chicks from one of the seasons from The Bachelor weren't the only unrecognizable yet recognizable people there. What was cool about this show was the big screen, which I've never seen in operation at these rock-arena style shows. It gave ample viewing to those of us in the back rows. My Shazam app picked up the groove on the song Ay Ay Ay by Duke Reid and Nora Dean.

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Karl-head Rating

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