Fashion Funhouse Emporium

Gretchen Jones

Jamar, Fashion Funhouse Emporium's fashion week correspondent is often snagged and photographed by street photographers for his unique and edgy style. He headed to the Gretchen Jones presentation for me. He gives us his rundown after the Introduction below.

Gretchen Jones came to reality TV fame on Project Runway as season 8 winner. Tim Gunn thought she was the show's bully, but Micheal Kors and Nina Garcia thought she earned the win. Her show invite came in the form of a court summons and her models stood as if they were in a police line up. I'm thinking this designer is trying to tell us she's being unfairly charged? Color Block separates on the cell block...okay I'll quit with the puns and get on with it.

Now, with her feet planted in Brooklyn, she's setting out to be known as Gretchen Jones the designer. She plans to stay true to her rural roots with the materials she chooses to work with: wool, bamboo, and organic cottons. She's also a member of the Save the Garment District alliance which supports ethical practices.

Colors: Orange, blue, black

Materials: Denim, cotton

Loved Looks:

The collection had a cool vibe, much like the people attending. Precisely draped dresses and separates with an asymmetrical cut were layered over each other. High waisted pants with front bow ties and chambray and pin stripe denims stood out as did intentionally unfinished chiffon. All of these elements  infused the collection giving it a bit more...ugh I hate this word, edge.

Most of the collection piece names were named after western and Indian spirituality themes like Medusa's head dresses, chevron patterns, Dragons blood gowns, and Lions tongue blouses. Don't worry, it was just the names not actually the design of the pieces.

The collection was dedicated to Gretchen's father Robert Bewley. A nice collection indeed for a Project Runway alumni with a bad rep.

Unloved Looks:

There is a question as to which market these clothes will belong to. They seem a bit refined for the contemporary market, but not meant for the luxury market. Obviously with the safe designs, she's hoping to sell some clothes.

People, Music and Scene:

Something was in the air here and it was rock and roll. Every girl looked like a Becka Diamond rip-off. Attendees were all sporting heavy duty rock-inspired outfits, even myself. Vintage rock tees and caftans, leather vests, and jackets were all ripped and reconstructed (FYI it was about 83 degrees on Thursday during the day), skinny jeans and about every style of boot you can imagine.

*Jamar knew who Becka Diamond was. Hes definitely cooler than me.

Rating:

Two out of four Karl Lagerfelds

Libertine

This is the second season back for Libertine with Jonhson Hartig flying solo. Harting founded his own line in 2000.  In 2001 after meeting Cindy Greene through mutual friends, she sent him a shirt with graphics. The shirt generated much interest with party-goers. So of course the next step was collaboration. Hartig reconstructed the clothes while Greene did the silk-screen prints. The duo soon found themselves the new cool kids of design with write-ups in everything from Domino and Time to Vogue both American and International editions.  The CFDA finalists snagged one of Target's first designer collaborations and the high-end line was sold in elite department stores around the world.  In 2009, Greene left to pursue other creative endeavors. After a brief hiatus, Hartig's vision of Libertine is selling in stores like Bergdorf Goodman and Harvey Nichols after a crowd pleasing Fall 2011 color graphic collection.

Colors: Black, white, cream, ivory, blue

Materials: Recycled

Loved Looks:

View full collection on nymag.com

One could argue that since Libertine revamps and alters found clothing that its not fashion design in the traditional sense. Though what is captivating about each look is the placement and the mix of graphics. While some of these re-dos are not for the meek, the pieces are eye candy. It was hard to stop examining as the models passed. Vintage clothing is a canvas for Hartig and the spring presentation was a far more themed and cohesive than those of the past excluding Fall 2011. Only a unique and exclusive clientele has access to the graffiti circle suit and painted silk printed dress. Its worked in the past for Libertine.

Unloved Looks:

For those expecting a completely different collection than Fall 2011 may be disappointed. There were a few people in the front row that didn't crack a smile when the "Tax the Rich More" tee came down the catwalk. I guess the humor depends on which way you lean on the political pendulum.

People, Music and Scene:

Fleetwood Mac remixed to a dance beat played while models did spins, high-fived and danced down the runway. And they had smiles. Models were smiling, people! Drinks were served in this low key Exit Art venue courtesy of Skyy Vodka and Lorenza Rose. Benches surrounded the runway for those of us whose feet needed a rest after hiking all the way to 10th Avenue. This presentation combined the excitement of runway and the no bull aspects of a presentation.

Rating:

Two and a Quarter Karl Lagerfelds out of Four

Cut25

Yigal Azrouel's diffusion line made its debut at New York Fashion Week. Cut25 like Azrouel's namesake, it a younger version of easy separates for girls who want to dress stylish, but with ease. Launched last fall, the label can already be found at upscale contemporary boutiques like Intermix and online at Revolve Clothing, Shopbop and his own site.

Colors: Blue, orange, citron, tan

Materials: Silk, leather, knits, jersey

Loved Looks:

View Full Collection at WWD.com

What Yigal does well is staple separates and easy dresses. This is not for the woman who wears his collection. These clothes are for the younger set: the fashion interns, the most stylish in the class and ladies in their 20's that want to add a bit of excitement to their wardrobe. Cut 25's surfer inspired gear uses color in the best way, pairing it with similar hues. Of course, there is always the option to pair bright color pieces with neutrals, which he did in some looks, a hot pink Frye shoe with a yellow jacket just gives a little something extra. Dresses are easy, and can be individualized to suit the wearers style.

Unloved Looks:

The tube top under knit sweater was my least favorite look among a wave of classy, yet youthful designs. I can see it on a girl strolling down the beach though.

People, Music and Scene:

Part presentation, part runway, this collection was shown in the same studio space as Yigal's collection. Everybody stands in these situations, so like Cut25, its definitely geared for those who prefer less of the fashion hierarchy. The models stood in neon taped off-grids and took turns strutting their stuff. The crowd was a mix of people including bloggers, young whipper-snapper celebs like Weeds actress Holland Roden and Tyson Ritter of All American Rejects.

Rating:

Three out of four Karl Lagerfelds.

Buckler

Designer Andrew Buckler makes clothes for the guy who wants to add a bit of bloke to traditional men's sportswear. Since the British invasion of Buckler in 2001 with a single pair of jeans, the line expanded into full menswear with stores in Toronto, London and New York. Again this season he took to the streets, literally on Gansevroot Street in Manhattan to show his line.

Colors: Gray, black, blue, ivory

Materials: Cotton, leather, denim

Loved Looks:

View Full Collection at GQ.com

When styling menswear, its often difficult to find a line that is younger, and less boring. Buckler's clothes are great when it comes to men dressing like men and not just high fashion experiments. Though a striped hooded sweatshirt and matching harem sweats may be too much for some guys, piece by piece, every guy can find something a little special in Buckler's line. The tuxedo jackets were fantastic with strategically placed pockets and inverted "v" cut. An essential leather blazer can be dressed down with a pair of his dark denim. If to make comparison's to other designers, the line is similar to Varvatos without the pompousness.

Unloved Looks:

If anything, the stone-wash gray denim would be a hard sell for most sloppy straight guy clients.

People, Scene and Music:

Admiting that there was a bit of bitching going on because it was hot, once I realized that closing down an entire street provides excellent visability, I was fine with that. At one point, I sat on the curb which I supposed would be "front row." My ass felt as if it was going to catch fire since the blazing sun pounded that very same pavement all day, but like I mentioned, I saw all the clothes in detail. I expected more of a crowd outside, but here's the thing I noticed. It's menswear. The construction workers who were eagerly standing on a near by roof disappeared once the first male model came strutting down the street to Prodigy's Fire Starter. So yes, I think that eliminated much of the would-be crowds that were hoping to see breasts through a sheer shirt. But the ladies in the crowd were impressed --as the pretty young girl next to me said "hubba hubba hubba" as one model passed by. Last, what is particularly brilliant about showing on the street is that you are able to envision the looks on that guy in his natural habitat--walking on the streets of New York.

Rating:

Three out of four Karl Lagerfelds.

General Idea

Last season, in conjunction with the Korean Ministry of Culture, Concept Korea showed at Lincoln Center. While not a part of the Concept Korea show, Korean designer Bumsuk Choi (unfortunate English translation on the first name. Don't judge me, like you didn't notice.) has been showing his luxury label since 2004 and was the youngest designer at age 26 to join Seoul Fashion Week, helping put South Korea on the map when it comes to top designers.

Colors: bright primary colors, orange, black, navy

Materials: knit, denim, nylon, cotton

Loved Looks

View full collection on GQ.com

I would say its more difficult to create men's clothes that stand out than it is for women. General Idea gave it the best shot with the sporty-dandy collection. Its as if Apollo Ono, Justin Timberlake and Hamish Bowles took their entire wardrobe to an amusement park and dumped it onto The Rotor. Whatever stuck to the wall won.  For the majority of this General Idea collection, this worked. It managed to combine just enough styles to make it interesting but not too outlandish. I loved the colored oxford shoes.

Unloved Looks

I don't think any man should ever wear fair isle knit sweaters. Its like said person just stepped out of some bizarre Christmas photo in which the way too close family all posed in the same sweater.  Also, I'm not sure how the half oxford shoe, half snow boot would play out in the everyday on the street but I do admire the attempt at something new.

People, Scene, Music

Nine AM on a Saturday is a hard spot at Lincoln Center. A socialite or two, combined with bloggers, crashers and haute hounds showed up bright and early though.  I appreciated the black arch runway entrance. It seems like most designers don't bother with the set at the tents.

Video

Karl-head Rating

What the hell is this? View Fashion Funhouse Emporium's Karl-head Rating System!

Rather than reporting on shows, I choose to procrastinate by doing this.

Georges Chakra

Georges Chakra debuted his first ready to wear line, Edition Georges Chakra, in New York in 2009. Chakra initially started in haute couture shows in France in 2002.

I must admit, I haven't paid much attention to this designer, until this season. I was late for his show at the Tents in Lincoln Center. When I walked in, it was playing on the large screen. I was mesmerized. Not one to be into gala gowns (seriously, when will a blogger from Fashion Funhouse Emporium need one?) I still couldn't walk away. I'm actually glad I caught the show outside, in the lobby on a jumbo-tron screen. It gave a much better view of the perfectly tailored and uniquely detailed gowns than I would've got from my seat.

If he's not one of the hottest designers dressing celebrities this spring, then he should be. I must mention as well, the white and lighters gowns would make great wedding dresses for out of the box thinking brides.

Check it out for yourself in this Mercedes Benz Fashion Week video.

Erin Fetherston

Erin Fetherston was born in California and studied at Parsons in Paris. In 2005 she began with a couture line. Her first ready to wear line debuted at the old home of fashion week, New York's Bryant Park in 2007.

Colors: ivory, light brown, pinks, yellow coral, gold, green

Materials: lace, cotton, crepe de chine, silk faille, viscose, linen, chiffon

Looks Loved

photos: wwd

Pictures don't do these pieces much justice since Erin's mix of fabrics and textures are the real draw to her clothing. Like many other designers, she chose a lighter palette fused with pops of bright jewel tone colors.  When seeing an Erin Fetherston collection, it is always expected that there will be a sugary sweet dress that appeals to all of us girls who spend most of our time trying to be tough. Her blush crepe overlay dress and the coral halter gown was just that. I also champagne jacket and shorts suit. Its such a chic way to wear shorts which can look frumpy at times. Extra points for styling the clothes with shoes from Aldo, confirming that style doesn't have to be head to toe expensive.

Unloved Looks

Photos: WWD

The black dress with and orange bow in this collection seemed like an afterthought. Perhaps she thought she needed to add more black since some of the pieces were black and white print. I don't think it was needed. The combination of black and orange is reminiscent of Halloween, which is far from the happy place this collection represents.

Music

There was a song that Shazam iphone app couldn't match that included the shows theme "Birds of Paradise" I believe. Other songs that my favorite app could pick up: Jungle Drum by Emilana Torrini, You Can't Hurry Love by The Concretes and Electric Light Orchestra's "Don't Bring Me Down." Indeed.

People and Scene

It was a feel good paradise in Milk Studios. While waiting in the standing line I met two young kids, wearing matching vests who were friendly though I butted into their conversation. The line waiting to get in was so long and they kept saying they hoped they got in. They did.  Kelly Osborne, who I'd seen earlier that day at Elise Overland was sitting front row, in a different outfit than she wore to the previous show. She smiled and snapped pictures of Erin as she walked the runway for her final bow.

To Gift or Not to Gift

Guest sipped champagne and there was a bright orange gerber daisy on each seat. I collected a couple before I left that just lie there sadly waiting. A girl exiting the show said "you're like me. Don't you think this better than any gift bag?" I did!

Bonus Video!

Check out a video directed by Marisa Crawford, who I had the pleasure of assisting in the past. The video, "Birds of a Fether" showcased last fall's collection.

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Trias

Joaquin Trias was born in Spain and is self- taught. He started his collection in 2009 and showed his first collection at New York Fashion Week during the Spring 2010 season.

Colors: white, red, light brown, red

Materials: cotton, wool, taffeta, raffia, viscose

Loved Looks

More of the minimal trend graced the runways at Trias. For the woman who is shopping for a well made basic dress, Trias delivers. For the Spring 2011 season, this is the label's first addition of accessories. Rope belts, boots, pumps with wooden platforms added an extra touch of sophistication to each look.

Unloved Looks

If we are talking about fashion shows in terms of the "show" aspect, this one was as vanilla as it gets. Its not that there was a lack of skill or beautiful garments, but seeing very little variation in siloutte and color walk hypnotically down the runway made it hard to keep focus.  Many designers this season went heavy on the minimal looks which can be great for buyers, but for those of us watching for a garment that burns in the memory, this wasn't one of those shows.

Music

Sun in the Rain By Ellen Allien and Dead Disco Dancer by O Children

People and Scene

This was a Lincoln Center tent show without much hub bub. A woman sitting in the third row back had a full on Marie Antoinette hair style. That was pretty cool.

To Gift or Not to Gift: Nope.

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