By now, you've heard about it. The story was in the New York Times and Racked.com dubbed the Herald Square H&M practice of slashing and tossing out unworn clothing as "Trash Gate."
But while the rest of the population is discovering what most fashion retail employees know already, fast fashion profits climbed this past year.
According to WWD, "earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization as a percentage of sales — were Hennes & Mauritz [H&M], at 23.4 percent; The Buckle Inc., at 22.5 percent; Zara operator Industria de Diseno Textil SA (Inditex), at 20.3 percent; Urban Outfitters Inc., at 19.8 percent, and Fast Retailing Co. Ltd., owners of Uniqlo, at 18.6 percent."
Photo: via Telegraph UK
It seems most of the outrage caused by the H&M slash and trash is because the items were not donated to a charity.
I volunteered for a clothing based charity organization which provides career appropriate clothing for women re-entering the work force. What stands out to me most were the items that people "donated." I'm sometimes guilty of it myself, items that don't get body time and the lack of space need to go somewhere other than the trash. However, after the donors have plopped their trash bags down and collected their tax receipt, volunteers sort through the items. And let me tell you, not all of it is usable.
Once I pulled a plaid pair of pants from a pile. They were inside out. Thats when I noticed "it." It, as in s-h-i-t. Yes. Someone actually decided to give the gift of doody crotched pants. Poop! It wasn't fresh, but crusted and dried for what seemed like possibly a decade-since the pants were of a 1970's polyester nature. What the hell is wrong with you?
Other funky items included scuffed, misshaped, severely worn-in shoes with fungal matter decaying the insoles. I even found women's pants stained with--ahem, I believe the medical term is vaginal discharge. I am not trying to be crude. But it seems the things that should end up in the trash, or at least in the laundry don't seem to be getting there, yet, brand new clothes are getting destroyed and ally-oped into a dumpster behind stores.
I confess. I have slacked on my volunteer work for that organization. I became disheartened. After all, most of the women that use this particular organization are not homeless. They are mothers, women who've had substance abuse problems and are getting back on their feet, young women who are from disadvantaged areas.
It was frustrating to me to see the items people donated were old, in poor condition and out of fashion. Yes. I said it. I do blog about fashion. And just because these women can't afford to buy their own clothes, does not mean they are going to be happy wearing a boxy cut, frumpy suit or a clothes that are two sizes too small.
And where were the corporate donors? Occasionally I spied a rack of the same suits in different sizes letting me know that some companies participated. But geez, H&M employees are playing Freddie Kruger on usable skirts and tees.
Appropriately, there has been much talk about "real women" and clothing sizes. As it turns out, most of the women who were being dressed there were an average size of 12 to 14. These are sizes retail chains like H&M carry. According to the New York Times article, Walmart was dumping off their unsold duds as well. Chains such as Walmart, K-Mart, and Macy's have an up- to-date and decent section for women size 14 and above.
Am I saying that we should only be donating of the moment trends like leopard print minis and studded belts? No. What I do find quite shameful, though is that H&M and fast retailers like them carry many versatile basics in solid colors like v-neck sweaters, button down shirts and dress slacks in grey and black. Payless has buy one get one 1/2 off sales.
Then, there is the issue of sustainability. You should consider where your fast fashion mustard yellow suede dress goes to die besides Beacon's Closet in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.
In America, we are capitalists. I write this blog that tempts your palette with beautiful (and sometimes not so much) pieces of fashion. To ask people not to spend unless there is an immediate need, as in you will be naked if you do not buy pants and a shirt, could be detrimental to our economy based on purchase and sales.
I'm not a saint. I certainly have moments where I buy clothing I don't "need." One can make the argument that "needy" people should take whatever they are given. But think about it, what if you had just enough money to cover the basic necessities like food and rent, wouldn't it feel great to have something to wear that made you feel confident?
Lets get real. While it may seem shallow, what we wear on the outside is a large part of how we are perceived. This can be looked at as unfortunate, but when is the last time that you saw someone wearing clothing two sizes too small and thought to yourself, "she's probably a nice person?"
I propose a challenge, to myself and to my readers. The next time you have some cash that's burning through your pockets, and you have the urge to snap up the latest trends, in addition to that belted bustier dress you buy for yourself, purchase a basic piece in size that is not your own. Then head to a local charity organization and drop it off. Leave the tax receipt behind. If you're going to be a consumer, might as well do something to help someone else while you're at it. Fashion is a wonderful gift.
Examples of Donation- Worthy Items for Women's Charities- Under $50
Think timeless, comfortable, season-less and versatile.
What to Consider Before Donating:
Is there an organization that may need these items that doesn't get them? Private Charities need donations in addition to your local Good Will and Salvation Army. Think outside the box. Im not saying these places don't need your items, but maybe there is another charity that needs it more. Suits for Dress for Success? Out-grown baby clothes to Baby Buggy?
Donations Central is a good data base for where to take specific types of clothing and helps you find places in your area.
- Check the organization's website to see if they are accepting donations. Some even have lists of what they can and can't accept.
- Give the charity of your choice a call. Ask if there is anything in particular that they are in need of at the moment, i.e. kids clothing, women's suits, sweaters, coats, etc.
- Ask if there are specific sizes that are needed or used most.
- If it's not decent enough to donate maybe you can chop it up and rework it, change a neckline, shorten the sleeves, or make a quilt?
Last, just think about what you buy, think about what you donate. You wouldn't want a pair of crapped in pants.
