Fashion Funhouse Emporium

United Bamboo designers Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham (not to be confused with Thuy Diep of the label Thuy) like clothes...and cats. For the past couple of years the two created a calenders with kitties dressed in their own couture. The blogosphere went crazy sending the calender viral with copy-cat photos of the feline in the runway look replicas.

Making mini versions of their clothes and expert tailoring skills that the duo has consistently showcased since they first launched in 1998 proves that they are not just about gimmicks. Where many others fall out, United Bamboo has staying power in this industry and a loyal following of people... and pets.

My cat would cut a bitch for this.

Photo: United Bamboo.com

Following Review by Jamar Graham.

Materials: shearling, wool suiting, mohair, silk crepe, cotton poplin

Colors: Black, grey, plaid, navy, maroon, olive, cinnamon, deep red.

Loved Looks

View full collection on nymag.com

United Bamboo has always been a go to for classic pieces that you just want to wear. This season was based on menswear, but there was a very interesting mix of girls walking the show. The shearling coats were a stand-out along with the beautifully fit double breasted wool pea-coats. A couple of draped bias cut dresses, tailored knitwear, and some killer over the knee boots were all in the mix. Though, a bit random, the black draped bias cut dress was a favorite for me.

Amber's notes: As far as personal style goes, this is mine. Keeping in mind, however, I can't judge the fall collections based on my own tastes. I'm just saying that I need to save some money for a fall trip to Opening Ceremony. I'd wear 90% of this collection.

Unloved Looks

I was confused by the need to mix a double breasted cropped jacket with double pleated culottes. The overall collection seemed to lack cohesion, but all in all I’m sure each piece will sell due to individual appeal, and not to mention everything looked so comfortable.

People, Scene and Music

It seems with each season, those who forgo the tents pick farther places to show. Anything between 9th and 10th avenue is a hike for fashionable feet who don't have cab fare for multiple trips from uptown, to downtown, to midtown to the West Side Highway. Alas, If Sean Lennon could make it, then so could I. Along with Mr. Ono Lennon, hipster musician Andrew Vanwyngarden and jewelry designer/ actor Waris Ahluwalia sat front row.

Video

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Karl-head Rating

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Complex Geometries

All we could find about these designers are that they are from Montreal Canada.  You can buy their clothes online and in the store Project No. 8, a carefully curated New York City boutique. Hurry before the retailer gets taken over by a Gap.

Now on to Jamar Graham's Review!

Materials: chiffon, charmeuse, silk, wool, suede, mohair, angora.

Colors: sand, stone, black, champagne, wine, metallic foil, grey, blush, smoke.

Loved Looks

View full collection at nymag.com

Draped for the woman's man or the man's woman? This neutered collection had a true dark, but natural feeling to the collection with the showing of stone necklaces and wooden platform boots. The epitome of of unisex clothing, the androgynous looks that could be related to a more feminine version of Rick Owens. Is it bad that I always reference and relate to Parisian designers? Not at all, because like Karl, I value my opinion. The best ideas come from established Paris luxury lines. We look to them and scoop out what we can afford to “get the look.” Complex Geometries served up a great interpretation. The stone accessories styled as necklaces and bracelets were a collaboration with Harakiri, which reminded me of age rings from the center of an of old oak tree. Very complex indeed.
The off-the-shoulder mohair sweater with suede shorts and two stone necklaces was a favorite!

Unloved Looks

There was a draped top that looked like a scarf tucked into a black wrap skirt. No bueno.

Amber's two cents: Um, some of these looks were not unisex, unless you're a guy who dresses in drag. Then, by all means...proceed.

People, Music and Scene

Fashion at the strip club, now that is what fashion is about! The tunes were moody fashion music that makes you seem like your a part of the cool crowd by Ms. Honey Dijon. Check out her page, she's vampin' in the nude.

Video

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Karl Head Rating

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GARY GRAHAM

I thought it was only fitting to bring back blogging buddy Jamar Graham this season to cover Gary Graham.

My first show of the Fall/Winter 2011/12 Season consisted of what I thought to be 70’s and 80’s references from designer Gary Graham at his Tribeca boutique.  What I took away from his new collection consisted of a collage of motifs from Jim Morrison, Jimi Hendrix, and Janis Joplin’s eclectic styles. The hair was volumed Joan Jett styled wigs paired with paisley print bandannas. With the addition of safety pin necklaces, converse sneakers, few graphic tee’s and striped cotton socks, I was sure I was right.

I was wrong though, Gary Graham took inspiration from Joseph Campbell's Hero with a Thousand Faces. Graham told the story of three phases: departure, initiation, and return.

Looks included carrot leg pants, draped over-sized cardigans, abstract digital printed leggings and dresses, smart suiting jackets, and beautiful silk dresses and blouses.

An interesting mix of motifs and references made for a upbeat stylish collection from one of New York’s creative designer collections.

Colors

Charcoal, beige, black, digital prints in yellow, red, and orange, maroon, and Ivory

Materials

Silk, embroidered wools, cotton, lycra, felt, shearling, twill.

Loved Looks

My favorite look was hands down an amazing draped Ivory floor length wool coat with dart detailing at the hem.

Unloved look

Embroidered wool gauze jacket, black t-shirt, and border batik silk dress.

People, Scene and Music

Abandoned seaside dock with slanted door opening?

Note from Editor: I've never read Joseph Campbell's A Hero With a Thousand Faces. I'm going to go with my first assumption and say Jamar hasn't either. But, Fashion Funhouse Emporium is an educational blog, as you can tell from its name. From what my research tells me, Campbell's hero theory is based on monomyth. Though this is not Campbell's word for word explanation, the idea is that a normal dude has the chance to be a hero. If he so chooses, he ventures into a supernatural world where he faces trials and tribulations. He learns stuff, then he comes back to the normal world kickin' some knowledge.

Jamar gives the Gary Graham Presentation at Karl head rating of:

What the hell does this mean? View the Fashion Funhouse Emporium Karl-head Rating System.

TIBI

Tibi, a contemporary collection designed by Georgia born Amy Smilovic was launched in 1997 when she moved to Asia with her husband. There she met American Octavia Hyland who's grandmother was named Tibi. The two worked closely together on textiles and managed to sell a small capsule collection. Shortly after, stores in the US asked how they could get their hands on their vividly colored, patterned styles.

Colors: nude, white, black, bright orange, camel, brown, purple, tobacco.

Materials: cashmere, poplin, leather, ponte, linen, suede, crochet, silk, chiffon

Loved Looks

Photos: WWD/Giovanni Giannoni

Photos: WWD/Giovanni Giannoni

Photos: WWD/Giovanni Giannoni

"Spring is about beauty and classics with a thoroughly modern twist and styles that are simple with ease"  says Tibi designer Amy Smilovic. The jumpsuits in this collection were among looks I loved in this collection, especially the tobacco colored one with the brown leather detailed trim.  The cow printed flat oxfords will shine in department and online store, as well as the sexy applique cut out dress.

Unloved Looks

Photos: WWD/Giovanni Giannoni

Jamar says: I literally gasped when I seen the large paisley print dresses and separates, not so cool.

Amber says: Ha, I can totally picture you in mid-dramatic gasp.

Music

Javier Peral

People and Scene

Tibi was a show that we all kind of know what to expect from; feminine, wearable, and of course stylish.  This reflected in its attendees, you could tell they were faithful to the Tibi aesthetic, yet one attendee you wouldn't think would live up to or in Tibi at all was Olivia Paleremo from MTV's The City. She graced their front row causing a stir of emotions for the shows devoted fans, giving the show some youthful cred.

By Jamar Graham for Fashion Funhouse Emporium. Jamar attended New York's Parsons School of Design. He's worked for leader in trend and industry analysis, WGSN and as a stylist assistant. Currently runs his own blog called Treated Material. He is also launching his own clothing line to be announced soon.

The GreenShows Eco Fashion Week Fall 2010

by Jamar Graham

I was sent by Fashion Funhouse Emporium to cover 2nd bi-annual The GreenShows Eco Fashion Week, February 14-17( the same week as the official New York Fashion Week)

Covering the Green Show’s was an interesting feat. I was coming into this project with a open mind to see if ethical and ecological fashion design can change my feelings towards actually purchasing it. My editor wanted to know if it was "going to be more of the burlap-looking shit and organic cotton tees with "peace" scribbled on them?"

My idea of eco-fashion is shopping thrift.  For me, that’s saving the planet.

As with any “Fashion Week,” there is good and bad and that’s no exception for The Green Shows. Boxed in a small venue in the East Village, the purpose of this show is to promote the design and consumption of fashion made from organically grown fabric, and that it did.

The organization pledged to locally recycle all materials used in production,locally compost all possible foods, products, and compostable materials, donate all reusable goods to charities and organizations after use, work with local vendors for production to limit the carbon footprint, and use alternative energy sources whenever possible.

This started with the air-conditioning.  There was none. It was my only complaint about The Green Shows.

Opening night started with designer Gary Harvey, proponent of using secondhand clothing and thrift as the fabrications for his one-of-a-kind couture-esqe dresses. Highlight of his shows included a denim dress made from forty-one pairs of Levi’s 501’s, fourteen gray hooded sweatshirts transformed into a skirt and top, twenty organic cotton slogan t-shirts donated by Katherine Hamnett fabricates a dress, and his perhaps his most statement look was a dress made form 30 copies of the "Financial Times" newspaper.

Photos courtesy of Statepr.com. Click here to see full collection

Vaute Couture (awful name, no?) offered a more fun colorful alternative to eco-fashion showcasing outwear made from a new alternative fiber Primaloft ECO. The brand also introduced knits in the form of tanks, scarfs, and off--the-shoulder tunics. Cute and fun was the aesthetic of this collection.

Photos courtesy of Statepr.com. Click to view full collection.

Sonja den Elzen, designer for Thieves showed a very “on trend” collection inspired by the urban nomad. The collection featured black on black, combinations of texture; including recycled leather, hemp, and bamboo, finely draped jackets, ruched mini dresses, leather detailing, and and great hand in tailoring and construction. Rugged and tough is what Thieves had to offer.

Photos courtesy of Statepr.com. Click to view full collection.

Deux fm showed what seemed to be the classical and feminine side of eco-fashion. Clean, simple, and lots of red lipstick; great dresses draped and wrapped around the bodies of the models, as well as structured little jackets to compliment the simpleness of the jersey wrap dresses. Cute touches were added by cinching the looks with bow-tie belts that could possibly be worn as headbands. Comfortable and clean was the statement here.

Photos courtesy of Statepr.com. Click to view full collection

About the Author: Jamar Graham studied fashion at Parsons School for Design and Davis College. He worked as a visual merchandiser, designer, trend forecaster and stylist assistant. He makes things out of other things like these hippie designers. He likes cats and eats Lucky Charms. He uses semicolons where they don't belong. His blog is better than mine. To read more of Jamar's real work head over to The Summer After Parsons and TrendLand.