Fashion Funhouse Emporium

Rachel Roy

With the launch of her own fashion line in 2005, Rachel Roy's empire has been steadily growing. With her luxury namesake label, her contemporary line Rachel Rachel Roy for Macy's and a recent collaboration with basketball player Amar'e Stoudemire, she shows no signs of slowing down. For the Spring 2012 season she takes us on a trip to Colonial Vietnam, inspired by the 1992 film version of Marguerite Duras’ “The Lover.”

Colors: Black, ivory, red, pink, orange

Materials: Organza, silk, twill, satin, linen

Loved Looks:

View Full collection on style.com

I'll admit it, I'm a fan of Rachel Roy. Its hard to be unbiased. The tailored black pants with a tie at the waist fit to perfection and paired with a floral graphic print shirt and neutral accessories is easy, refined and sophisticated. The ivory dress with brown leather has details in all the right places and could find a place in any woman's wardrobe year after year. The light tan leather band bracelets with a hint of color on the sides can be paired with almost any outfit along with the shoes as well. Perhaps the most stunning was a grey knit dress over top a coral-red slip. It had the perfect balance of sexy and classy. A sleeveless white suit and crop pants are an essential for any busy woman this spring.

Unloved Looks:

Compared to the rest of the collection, the pink shorts paired with a gray knit sweater seemed overly simple.

People Music and Scene:

The small Avery Fischer balcony was a bit overcrowded and hot especially with the star power packed in one tiny place. Kim Kardashian, Molly Sims, Veronica Webb, Margherita Missoni, Angela Simmons, and Corrine Bailey Rae. Even star make-up artist Bobbi Brown over saw and did the fresh faced looks. While her inspiration was "The Lover" the music was from the Hanna soundtrack.

Rating:

Three and a half Karl Lagerfelds.

Jen Kao

Inspired by lucid and paralytic dreams, Jen Kao brings more of her signature street style with easy refinement to the runway. With five seasons of showing at Fashion Week and one resort collection under her belt, she is working a bit more with pattern than in the past. The major differences each season, while still keeping true to her style is the reason why we want to continue to see her evolve.

Colors: orange, ivory, pink, blue, lilac, pastels

Materials: Jersey, chiffon, lace, knit, organza, hemp, cotton

Loved Looks:

View Full Collection on Style.com

Jen Kao's strength lies in the intricate knits and laces that she creates. The papaya orange dress will look great for a spring night out or even on a young starlet on the red carpet. For those of us who run around during our day jobs, the mermaid printed shirt dress paired with adorable high tops are perfect for a get-up-and go look. The blue lace shirt dress is an easy change from day to night. The versatility of her separates are what makes Kao's collection retail ready, while the addition of paper origami elements by The Paper Cut Project made her collection show ready.

Unloved Looks:

The sneakers didn't work with everything, though I wish they did.

People, Music and Scene:

The music was listed as Albert Swarm on the program. Shown at Lincoln Center's studio, there were still plenty of seats left to fill when the standing line was let in. As always with Lincoln Center, there are the people who are there to be seen, celebrity chasers and those who are there for the clothes. Socialite and jack-of-all trades Becka Diamond sat front row. Did I mention Micheal Stipe from REM was there? I sat across the row from him, and I had no idea. He was incognito with a hat, moustache and sunglasses, looking way older than I remember him from the days when I played his song Crush with Eyeliner ad nausea as a college radio D.J. That's a great song. Stand, on the other hand...

Rating:

Three out of four Karl Lagerfelds

Mimi Plange

Jamar, Fashion Funhouse Emporium's fashion week correspondent is often snagged and photographed by street photographers for his unique and edgy style. He headed to the Mimi Plange Presentation for me. He gives us his rundown after the bio.

Mimi Plange strives to design clothes that reflect the mood of a women in garments that are both special and timeless. With a BA in Architecture and a minor in dramatic Art, like many others with similar backgrounds, she turned to fashion design.  She worked with both Rachel Roy and Patricia Field before setting out on her own.

Colors: pink, pastel, white, green, yellow

Materials: sequins, satin, silk

Loved Looks:

View full collection at WWD

Plange took to juxtaposing large scale Eastern floral prints with the traditional dress of the Himba, and the Victorian dress of the Herero. The result was  feminine and strong. The tailoring showed her expertise with clean lines with slightly aggressive shapes. The couture details based on traditional hand crafted garments made for something modern for that special sophisticated woman that does Mimi Plange justice. Her collaboration with  Manolo Blahnik showcased along side her collection featuring an amazing nude sandals with leather cut outs and leather tassels, as well as a silk floral beaded bootie that could stand on its on.

Unloved Looks:

Next to the amazing floral looks, a plain pink sheath dress gets passed right by.

People, Music and Scene:

This presentation was relatively low key, that is if you didn't cross paths with Andre Leon Tally and Rachel Zoe, both who are putting thier support behind the new designer. Held at Asian Society on the Upper East Side of NY, the collection was presented beneath a beautiful floral installation.

Rating:

Two and Three Quarter Karl Lagerfelds out of Four

SIKI IM the new comer on the menswear landscape comes with several acclaims. He was awarded an Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation grant, the Samsung 2011 Fashion & Design Fund and was recently a shortlisted designer for the 2011 Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize. You can find him at Parsons School of Design as a senior concept teacher in addition to designing his namesake line.

Colors: Black, gray, blue

Materials: Cotton, denim, wool, linen, jersey

Loved Looks:

On the seats, the introduction included a quote from Noam Chomsky and a description of the theme Topography of Globalization. Even if you were too lazy to read the run of show, it was clear the collection was inspired by worldly costumes. A mix of American sportswear and elements taken from Middle Eastern men's garments were seamlessly sent down the runway in a seamless continuity. Given the inspiration, this was likely intended. Globalization aside, Siki IM shows sophisticated street style that is appropriate for the urban modern guy.

Unloved Looks:

Perhaps restricted by theme, some of the pieces tended to look repetitive.

People, Music and Scene:

This way downtown Varick Street venue provided much room. An open bar served some kind of drinks. Jamar and I were not only too lazy to read then, but also too tired to venture back to the bartenders. Though others stayed there throughout the whole show. It seems the best way to keep people from complaining about the standing is to give them booze, especially since some of these guests probably had seats.  Music was hypnotic drum beats.

Rating:

Three out of four Karl Lagerfelds.

Georges Chakra

Georges Chakra debuted his first ready to wear line, Edition Georges Chakra, in New York in 2009. Chakra initially started in haute couture shows in France in 2002.

I must admit, I haven't paid much attention to this designer, until this season. I was late for his show at the Tents in Lincoln Center. When I walked in, it was playing on the large screen. I was mesmerized. Not one to be into gala gowns (seriously, when will a blogger from Fashion Funhouse Emporium need one?) I still couldn't walk away. I'm actually glad I caught the show outside, in the lobby on a jumbo-tron screen. It gave a much better view of the perfectly tailored and uniquely detailed gowns than I would've got from my seat.

If he's not one of the hottest designers dressing celebrities this spring, then he should be. I must mention as well, the white and lighters gowns would make great wedding dresses for out of the box thinking brides.

Check it out for yourself in this Mercedes Benz Fashion Week video.

Chris Benz

Chris Benz grew up in Seattle. At age 17 he came to New York to study at Parsons. With an internship at Marc Jacobs under his belt, he went on to work for J Crew. In 2007, he showed his first collection at New York Fashion Week.

Colors: green, yellow, orange, blue, neutrals

Materials: knits, cotton, tulle, leather, chiffon

Loved Looks

Photos: Style.com. Click to see full collection

While many fashion reviews may think this too 60's, his collection translates well to right now. Back to the 60's is a big trend this year (Miu Miu pre-fall, Nina Ricci resort, Marni) and Benz is keeping a good thing going for Spring 2011. With a bursts of bright colors and patterns, his stand out looks were the mini pleated skirts, tie neck blouses--in a couple different colors because when it works, stick with it. The floral shoes with the neutral hued dress were the result of a collaborative effort  with Alejandro Ingelmo, which gave the looks an extra boost.

Unloved Looks

While his ruffled shirt and floral skirt combo was nice, that is my point. In a collection of bold, fun pieces, this one was the snoozer of the bunch.

Music

60's french pop music played to match his them of how we silly Americans see Parisians--if it was the 60's.

People and Scene

Though presentations are usually low-key, this one was full of heavy-hitters. Kelly Osborne, who made the rounds as several shows, Susan Sarandon, Denise Richards and Carmen Electra.

TIBI

Tibi, a contemporary collection designed by Georgia born Amy Smilovic was launched in 1997 when she moved to Asia with her husband. There she met American Octavia Hyland who's grandmother was named Tibi. The two worked closely together on textiles and managed to sell a small capsule collection. Shortly after, stores in the US asked how they could get their hands on their vividly colored, patterned styles.

Colors: nude, white, black, bright orange, camel, brown, purple, tobacco.

Materials: cashmere, poplin, leather, ponte, linen, suede, crochet, silk, chiffon

Loved Looks

Photos: WWD/Giovanni Giannoni

Photos: WWD/Giovanni Giannoni

Photos: WWD/Giovanni Giannoni

"Spring is about beauty and classics with a thoroughly modern twist and styles that are simple with ease"  says Tibi designer Amy Smilovic. The jumpsuits in this collection were among looks I loved in this collection, especially the tobacco colored one with the brown leather detailed trim.  The cow printed flat oxfords will shine in department and online store, as well as the sexy applique cut out dress.

Unloved Looks

Photos: WWD/Giovanni Giannoni

Jamar says: I literally gasped when I seen the large paisley print dresses and separates, not so cool.

Amber says: Ha, I can totally picture you in mid-dramatic gasp.

Music

Javier Peral

People and Scene

Tibi was a show that we all kind of know what to expect from; feminine, wearable, and of course stylish.  This reflected in its attendees, you could tell they were faithful to the Tibi aesthetic, yet one attendee you wouldn't think would live up to or in Tibi at all was Olivia Paleremo from MTV's The City. She graced their front row causing a stir of emotions for the shows devoted fans, giving the show some youthful cred.

By Jamar Graham for Fashion Funhouse Emporium. Jamar attended New York's Parsons School of Design. He's worked for leader in trend and industry analysis, WGSN and as a stylist assistant. Currently runs his own blog called Treated Material. He is also launching his own clothing line to be announced soon.

Photo: Phillipe Bond/ Facebook

The Blonds, designers David and Phillipe Blond will be the last show for my New York Spring Fashion Week 2011 coverage.  Last season, there was a gorilla walking the runway along with plenty of signature studded corsets and lux evening gowns.

If you were wishing you could be there, here is the next best thing:

Watch The Blonds Show LIVE at 7:15PM September 16 (that's tonight!)

Erin Fetherston

Erin Fetherston was born in California and studied at Parsons in Paris. In 2005 she began with a couture line. Her first ready to wear line debuted at the old home of fashion week, New York's Bryant Park in 2007.

Colors: ivory, light brown, pinks, yellow coral, gold, green

Materials: lace, cotton, crepe de chine, silk faille, viscose, linen, chiffon

Looks Loved

photos: wwd

Pictures don't do these pieces much justice since Erin's mix of fabrics and textures are the real draw to her clothing. Like many other designers, she chose a lighter palette fused with pops of bright jewel tone colors.  When seeing an Erin Fetherston collection, it is always expected that there will be a sugary sweet dress that appeals to all of us girls who spend most of our time trying to be tough. Her blush crepe overlay dress and the coral halter gown was just that. I also champagne jacket and shorts suit. Its such a chic way to wear shorts which can look frumpy at times. Extra points for styling the clothes with shoes from Aldo, confirming that style doesn't have to be head to toe expensive.

Unloved Looks

Photos: WWD

The black dress with and orange bow in this collection seemed like an afterthought. Perhaps she thought she needed to add more black since some of the pieces were black and white print. I don't think it was needed. The combination of black and orange is reminiscent of Halloween, which is far from the happy place this collection represents.

Music

There was a song that Shazam iphone app couldn't match that included the shows theme "Birds of Paradise" I believe. Other songs that my favorite app could pick up: Jungle Drum by Emilana Torrini, You Can't Hurry Love by The Concretes and Electric Light Orchestra's "Don't Bring Me Down." Indeed.

People and Scene

It was a feel good paradise in Milk Studios. While waiting in the standing line I met two young kids, wearing matching vests who were friendly though I butted into their conversation. The line waiting to get in was so long and they kept saying they hoped they got in. They did.  Kelly Osborne, who I'd seen earlier that day at Elise Overland was sitting front row, in a different outfit than she wore to the previous show. She smiled and snapped pictures of Erin as she walked the runway for her final bow.

To Gift or Not to Gift

Guest sipped champagne and there was a bright orange gerber daisy on each seat. I collected a couple before I left that just lie there sadly waiting. A girl exiting the show said "you're like me. Don't you think this better than any gift bag?" I did!

Bonus Video!

Check out a video directed by Marisa Crawford, who I had the pleasure of assisting in the past. The video, "Birds of a Fether" showcased last fall's collection.

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