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Sep 17, 2010 10:06PM

New York Fashion Week Spring 2011- Zang Toi

Zang Toi

Zang Toi was born in Malaysia and is a Parson's School of Design graduate.

Colors: pink, black, white, blue

Materials: silk, crepe, organza, denim, cotton, linen, cashmere, suede

Loved Looks

Photo: WWD/ George Chinsee

Photo: WWD/ George Chinsee

Photo: WWD/ George Chinsee

While this show was a parade of theater wardrobe costumes, there were a few pieces that would fit fine on the racks at department stores for women who like a classic debutante dress. Lets not forget that there is something for everyone's tastes when it comes to clothing. Perhaps a country artist or a lady who attends black tie galas could wear a piece or two. I also very much enjoyed the shirtless male model that kicked off the show as well. So, thank you for that.

Unloved Looks

Photo: WWD/ George Chinsee

Photo: WWD/ George Chinsee

This show had more losers than winners. While I believe Zang Toi was trying to bring excitement into a fashion week of plain garments, the execution was over done. From everything to the theme, the music, and the garments, Lone Star Cowboy & The Texas Rose was a literal display of the American cowboy culture. At times the collection seemed like Ralph Lauren's anniversary collection gone wrong. Where a look couldve been a knock out, a craft store trimming was added to downgrade it. The black peak lapel blazer and classic trouser were flawlessly made, but the pink bow on the lapel seemed like an afterthought. The same goes with black silk ball gown and the black floor length gown. The denim suits and jeans looks should've been edited out.

Music

So you know this theme of Lone Star Cowboy & The Texas Rose that inspired Zang Toi? He had the music to match. The show started out with Save a Horse by Big and Rich. I thought, Brilliant, hes mocking America's country culture. A large portion of the crowd somehow knew the lyrics to the song. A large heavily made up older blond woman was "riding the saddle" in her seat while swinging an invisible lasso. Was I at a New York fashion show? From there, the music switched to Main Theme of The Magnificent Seven. Finally, for the last 15 minutes of the show--I shit you not--this is by no means an exaggeration, since I Shazam App'd this song twice--once at 9:39 and then again at 9:55--and it was still playing as the show ended.  Show goers were driven mad by Giant by Dimitri Tominkin. At one point the security guard saw me using my Shazam app and asked "is this still the same song?" Indeed it was. As I exited he said "We'll all need therapy after this." Click on the link and give it a listen, just for a minute and imagine hearing it for 15 minutes straight at about 90 decibels.

People and Scene

I don't even want to talk about how packed this show was. All week, I have not seen one single tent show in The Studio venue this crowded. People were packed in the way KFC or Taco Bell stuffs every food-like substance on its menu into a one bowl fraken-food concoction.

 

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Sep 16, 2010 12:23PM

New York Fashion Week Spring 2011 - MIK CIRE

MIK CIRE

Former Monarchy designer Eric Kim makes his second round at the Tents at Lincoln Center for New York Fashion Week. This men's designer is one to watch. He has past successful lines under his leather spats and is his own line is taking off.

Colors: Black, white, gray with hint of red.

Materials: cotton, leather, denim

Loved Looks

© Ed Kavishe, Fashion Wire Press

© Ed Kavishe, Fashion Wire Press

© Ed Kavishe, Fashion Wire Press

Since I attended the show for the Fall season, I knew I could expect some sexy men in hot clothes. With a combination of Lower East Side toughness and California skater vibe, each look was simple, but had that something extra for men who aren't trying too hard. Like last season, Kim had black trenches and fitted black jackets that men need to add to their wardrobe. Now. If I could add one word of advice, my readers went crazy over last season's leather spats and maybe they can be worked into a look or two for spring. I loved the scarves and men's jewelry with the white tees.

Unloved Looks

As a strict proponent against flip flops of any sort on male or female, unless they are wearing them at the beach or in a locker room, even Kim's funky shaped black and white shower shoes made me wince. Though, if guys decide to wear them in either of these scenarios, then they were totally cool.

Music

I missed the chance to Shazam it!

People and Scene

© Ed Kavishe, Fashion Wire Press

It was the no fuss Lincoln Center white runway venue. While there wasn't much of a set design, which is typical of these shows, MIK CIRE doesn't need them. At his shows its all eyes on the clothes. That is, unless you're into down-to-earth hottie Shannon Elizabeth and The Perry Farrell, who sat front row. I was also overjoyed to see rising male model Shawn Sutton walking in the show. I had the pleasure of working with him on a shoot for Japan's WestEast magazine which will be out in October.

For an upclose of the dudes of the MIK CIRE show, check out Fashionisto's backstage coverage.

Read Fashion Funhouse Emporium's Fall 2010 coverage of MIK CIRE. Its fall, in case you forgot.

 

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Sep 14, 2010 9:22PM

New York Fashion Week Spring 2011 - Peter Jensen

Peter Jensen

Peter Jensen, Danish born designer, is based in London. He's a graduate of Central Saint Martins with an MFA in menswear. In 2001, following the success of his men's line in Paris he went on to design for women. With muses such as Sissy Spacek, Tonya Harding and this season, Shelley Duvall, he specializes in quirky but wearable clothing. He's collaborated with Fred Perry, Topshop and Topman.

Colors: primary colors in blue, yellow and red, green, navy

Materials: crepe, silk, knits, corduroy, suede, chiffon

Loved Looks

Photos: WWD/Pasha Antonov

Photos: WWD/Pasha Antonov

Photos: WWD/Pasha Antonov

Peter Jesen's Shelley Duvall inspired collection was a flashback to the 70's with shapes and colors the era's casual wear. Color on the runways this season has been shown in scarce patches, except here at Jensen's show. He's known for going his own way. His collection will most likely appeal to the Teen Vogue/ Marc by Marc Jacobs crowd with rainbow banded knit sweaters, color blocked cardigans, chunky Lego Land colored shoes and corduroy minis. But, very much like Marc by Marc, the over thirty crowd might stumble upon a piece or too that doesn't read too young like the long backless navy halter dress.

Unloved Looks

Photos: WWD/Pasha Antonov

Young or older, Peter Jensen sent some pieces down the runway that were just too frumpy.  The pink corduroy suit jacket was ill-fitting and the double pockets and heart belt over top didn't do much to help it. Perhaps if the pants were more of a bell bottom and the jacket hit slightly lower on the hip, maybe I wouldn't have disliked this look so much. The skirts over top of skirts over top of pants meant well, but didn't translate as I think Jensen intended.

Music

Shazam didn't pick up any of the songs playing by DJ Jerry Bouthier.

People and Scene

Some people were confused as to whether this would be a presentation or a runway show. With a few benches and the rest standing, it was indeed a runway show on the West side of Milk Studios. The carpet runner used as a runway helped with the 70's vibe as did the old windows over looking the city. The crowd was part quirky 80's hipsters along with the full on sunglasses-at-night-dressed-in-leather fashionistas.

 

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Sep 14, 2010 10:07AM

New York Fashion Week Spring 2011 - Leifsdottir

Leifsdottir

Finland native Johanna Uurasjarvi presents her first runway showing of her Leifsdottir line. The wholesale brand debuted in 2008, but since then, she's only held presentations.  A member of the URBN Inc family (Anthropologie, Urban Outfitters, and Free People) her designs stay true to the company's journey to bring unique, artistic garments to the main stream.

Colors: nude, white, black, light pastel orange, safari green

Materials: Snakeskin, silk, silk organza, chiffon, leather, cotton twill, jersey,

Loved Looks

Photos: Zimbio

Since its a brand owned by Urban Outtfitters and sold in Anthropologie, girls on the street will be wearing these pieces separately with jeans, cargos, t-shirts and tanks. Though, the serpent skin skirts and shorts were standout as well as the staple black cotton dresses and little cropped black jackets. The leather pailette jacket had a great fit, and the styling with the circle sunglasses lent a bit more hipness.

Unloved Looks

Photos: Zimbio

Patent leather black trim tops were unnecessary and didn't fit. I could have lived without the Alexander Wang influenced sheer shirt and exposed bra looks.

Music

Mr Wilson DJ provided the soundtrack. Fun Fact: He also does the music for The Blonds shows.

People and Scene

Showed in the box of Lincoln Center. As we entered we were entranced with a pesky royal blue tine black-light, the backdrop of the runway consisted of two tanks made up of greenery as well as safari imagery on the wall screens.  No celebs, but lots of bloggers, taking pictures of the attendees and not much of the show.

Reviewed by Jamar Graham for Fashion Funhouse Emporium. Jamar atttened New York's Parsons School of Design. He's worked for WGSN and currently writes his own blog called Treated Material. He is also launching his own clothing line to be announced soon.

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Sep 13, 2010 12:25PM

New York Fashion Week Spring 2011 - Jill Stuart

JIll Stuart

Jill Stuart came from a fashion family. Her parents owned a prominent sportswear company in the 60's and 70's. Jill sold her first accessories collection to Bloomingdales at  age15. The pieces included suede fringed hobos and silver and leather chokers.  Her Jill Stuart Collection began in 1993 to much notoriety including in the wardrobe of the film Clueless.

 

Colors: Cream, black, yellow, tan

Materials: Satin, silks, sheer

 

Loved Looks

Photos: Style.com

Jill Stuart took a step down from the tough girl pedastool and returned to looks that built her name. Her dresses, tuxedo suits and separates were not a knock back to the "Cluless" days but rather proof that like all of us, she's growing up. The minimal trend seems to be the way to go for spring 2011, as its been the most seen on the runways thus far, including Jill Stuart.  The quirky print librarian shirt, the ultra feminine flowing dress and the strong fem-masculine tuxedo were the stand out pieces

Unloved Looks

Photos: Style.com

Whats up with these shorts? They look as if  the model went into Casual Male XL and asked "what's the biggest size shorts you got? Size 58 mens? Great. Ill take em!" Then she put a belt around her waist and rocked them on the runway. The shirt is cute though.

Music

Shazam Iphone app failed me. Lets just say dancey-beat stuff.

People and Scene

Reality-show-a-palooza in the Lincoln Center Tents. Lots of regular people and lots of "regular" people with TV shows: Brad from Rachel Zoe Project, the America's Next Top Model crew, the Kardashians.

To Gift or Not to Gift: Everyday we are alive is a gift, people. (can you tell I didn't get a gift bag?)

 

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