Fashion Funhouse Emporium

CHRISHABANA

Designer Chris Habana resurrects goth idolatry in for the pop eye in his signature line CHRISHABANA. His style is often duplicated, but with each season he keeps churning out new and fresh jewelry that sets the trends. Early on in his career, he caught the attention of Gen Art winning Fresh Faces 2004 and New Garde in 2007. He's collaborated with Oak NYC A-OK, Hood by Air, and Urban Outfitters with more to follow.

CHRISHABANA held a small presentation for his namesake line and his off-shoot label MY ENEMY during New York Fashion Week off-site on West 20th Street. Models were styled with his pieces in addition to displays throughout the venue.

Check out some of the pieces from CHRISHABANA's Spring 2012 collection below. Neon is not just the color to have for clothing come next spring, but this trend setter added the highlighter hues to his jewelry as well. And of course, it wouldn't be CHRISHABANA without dark and devious metal pieces.

Photos: Courtesy of CHRISHABANA

Visit CHRISHABANA to pick up his current collection.

Gretchen Jones

Jamar, Fashion Funhouse Emporium's fashion week correspondent is often snagged and photographed by street photographers for his unique and edgy style. He headed to the Gretchen Jones presentation for me. He gives us his rundown after the Introduction below.

Gretchen Jones came to reality TV fame on Project Runway as season 8 winner. Tim Gunn thought she was the show's bully, but Micheal Kors and Nina Garcia thought she earned the win. Her show invite came in the form of a court summons and her models stood as if they were in a police line up. I'm thinking this designer is trying to tell us she's being unfairly charged? Color Block separates on the cell block...okay I'll quit with the puns and get on with it.

Now, with her feet planted in Brooklyn, she's setting out to be known as Gretchen Jones the designer. She plans to stay true to her rural roots with the materials she chooses to work with: wool, bamboo, and organic cottons. She's also a member of the Save the Garment District alliance which supports ethical practices.

Colors: Orange, blue, black

Materials: Denim, cotton

Loved Looks:

The collection had a cool vibe, much like the people attending. Precisely draped dresses and separates with an asymmetrical cut were layered over each other. High waisted pants with front bow ties and chambray and pin stripe denims stood out as did intentionally unfinished chiffon. All of these elements  infused the collection giving it a bit more...ugh I hate this word, edge.

Most of the collection piece names were named after western and Indian spirituality themes like Medusa's head dresses, chevron patterns, Dragons blood gowns, and Lions tongue blouses. Don't worry, it was just the names not actually the design of the pieces.

The collection was dedicated to Gretchen's father Robert Bewley. A nice collection indeed for a Project Runway alumni with a bad rep.

Unloved Looks:

There is a question as to which market these clothes will belong to. They seem a bit refined for the contemporary market, but not meant for the luxury market. Obviously with the safe designs, she's hoping to sell some clothes.

People, Music and Scene:

Something was in the air here and it was rock and roll. Every girl looked like a Becka Diamond rip-off. Attendees were all sporting heavy duty rock-inspired outfits, even myself. Vintage rock tees and caftans, leather vests, and jackets were all ripped and reconstructed (FYI it was about 83 degrees on Thursday during the day), skinny jeans and about every style of boot you can imagine.

*Jamar knew who Becka Diamond was. Hes definitely cooler than me.

Rating:

Two out of four Karl Lagerfelds

Libertine

This is the second season back for Libertine with Jonhson Hartig flying solo. Harting founded his own line in 2000.  In 2001 after meeting Cindy Greene through mutual friends, she sent him a shirt with graphics. The shirt generated much interest with party-goers. So of course the next step was collaboration. Hartig reconstructed the clothes while Greene did the silk-screen prints. The duo soon found themselves the new cool kids of design with write-ups in everything from Domino and Time to Vogue both American and International editions.  The CFDA finalists snagged one of Target's first designer collaborations and the high-end line was sold in elite department stores around the world.  In 2009, Greene left to pursue other creative endeavors. After a brief hiatus, Hartig's vision of Libertine is selling in stores like Bergdorf Goodman and Harvey Nichols after a crowd pleasing Fall 2011 color graphic collection.

Colors: Black, white, cream, ivory, blue

Materials: Recycled

Loved Looks:

View full collection on nymag.com

One could argue that since Libertine revamps and alters found clothing that its not fashion design in the traditional sense. Though what is captivating about each look is the placement and the mix of graphics. While some of these re-dos are not for the meek, the pieces are eye candy. It was hard to stop examining as the models passed. Vintage clothing is a canvas for Hartig and the spring presentation was a far more themed and cohesive than those of the past excluding Fall 2011. Only a unique and exclusive clientele has access to the graffiti circle suit and painted silk printed dress. Its worked in the past for Libertine.

Unloved Looks:

For those expecting a completely different collection than Fall 2011 may be disappointed. There were a few people in the front row that didn't crack a smile when the "Tax the Rich More" tee came down the catwalk. I guess the humor depends on which way you lean on the political pendulum.

People, Music and Scene:

Fleetwood Mac remixed to a dance beat played while models did spins, high-fived and danced down the runway. And they had smiles. Models were smiling, people! Drinks were served in this low key Exit Art venue courtesy of Skyy Vodka and Lorenza Rose. Benches surrounded the runway for those of us whose feet needed a rest after hiking all the way to 10th Avenue. This presentation combined the excitement of runway and the no bull aspects of a presentation.

Rating:

Two and a Quarter Karl Lagerfelds out of Four

Cut25

Yigal Azrouel's diffusion line made its debut at New York Fashion Week. Cut25 like Azrouel's namesake, it a younger version of easy separates for girls who want to dress stylish, but with ease. Launched last fall, the label can already be found at upscale contemporary boutiques like Intermix and online at Revolve Clothing, Shopbop and his own site.

Colors: Blue, orange, citron, tan

Materials: Silk, leather, knits, jersey

Loved Looks:

View Full Collection at WWD.com

What Yigal does well is staple separates and easy dresses. This is not for the woman who wears his collection. These clothes are for the younger set: the fashion interns, the most stylish in the class and ladies in their 20's that want to add a bit of excitement to their wardrobe. Cut 25's surfer inspired gear uses color in the best way, pairing it with similar hues. Of course, there is always the option to pair bright color pieces with neutrals, which he did in some looks, a hot pink Frye shoe with a yellow jacket just gives a little something extra. Dresses are easy, and can be individualized to suit the wearers style.

Unloved Looks:

The tube top under knit sweater was my least favorite look among a wave of classy, yet youthful designs. I can see it on a girl strolling down the beach though.

People, Music and Scene:

Part presentation, part runway, this collection was shown in the same studio space as Yigal's collection. Everybody stands in these situations, so like Cut25, its definitely geared for those who prefer less of the fashion hierarchy. The models stood in neon taped off-grids and took turns strutting their stuff. The crowd was a mix of people including bloggers, young whipper-snapper celebs like Weeds actress Holland Roden and Tyson Ritter of All American Rejects.

Rating:

Three out of four Karl Lagerfelds.

SIKI IM the new comer on the menswear landscape comes with several acclaims. He was awarded an Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation grant, the Samsung 2011 Fashion & Design Fund and was recently a shortlisted designer for the 2011 Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize. You can find him at Parsons School of Design as a senior concept teacher in addition to designing his namesake line.

Colors: Black, gray, blue

Materials: Cotton, denim, wool, linen, jersey

Loved Looks:

On the seats, the introduction included a quote from Noam Chomsky and a description of the theme Topography of Globalization. Even if you were too lazy to read the run of show, it was clear the collection was inspired by worldly costumes. A mix of American sportswear and elements taken from Middle Eastern men's garments were seamlessly sent down the runway in a seamless continuity. Given the inspiration, this was likely intended. Globalization aside, Siki IM shows sophisticated street style that is appropriate for the urban modern guy.

Unloved Looks:

Perhaps restricted by theme, some of the pieces tended to look repetitive.

People, Music and Scene:

This way downtown Varick Street venue provided much room. An open bar served some kind of drinks. Jamar and I were not only too lazy to read then, but also too tired to venture back to the bartenders. Though others stayed there throughout the whole show. It seems the best way to keep people from complaining about the standing is to give them booze, especially since some of these guests probably had seats.  Music was hypnotic drum beats.

Rating:

Three out of four Karl Lagerfelds.

Sally Lapointe

An article for Rolling Stone's blog was titled: How Lady Gaga launched Sally Lapointe's Career. First thought, crediting Lady Gaga for the launch of a talented designer's career is giving the pop star a bit too much credit. Maybe it's just the headline's wording. Perhaps "Boosted Lapointe's Career" is more appropriate. While it certainly doesn't hurt to have a fashion-loving mega-star adore the clothes, Sally Lapointe certainly was on the radar of many stylists and editors previous to Lady's love. What made the industry keep one eye on Lapointe was--and still is-- her unique approach to deisgn in an American market where others tend to tone down ready-to-wear for buyers.

Colors: Black, gray, pink, green, yellow silver

Materials: Crepe, calfskin, jersey, silk, chiffon, neoprene

Loved Looks:

View Full Collection on NYmag.com

While signature black structured pieces were still there, a lighter vibe swept over the collection. The run of show mentions Renwick Ruin, an abandoned smallpox hospital on Roosevelt Island, NYC. The influence was seen as the models wore sheer caps, as if wrapped in bandages. Though the pieces evoked the beauty of the ruins, not the sorrow that dwelled within many years ago.  Beautiful pastel prints combined with Lapointe's signature architectural jackets stole the show. Piece by piece, the majority of the collection is very wearable for a woman who wants to add her own style. A shimmering blazer can be worn with a button down shirt and trousers. A sleeveless black ultrasuede vest can easily be worn with a white tank and denim. Perhaps most interesting, Lapointe manages to make her pieces sellable without selling out who she is as a designer.

Unloved Looks:

The silver microvelvet vest and green shantung jacket will probably work best for an editorial spread or Lady Gaga's next stage appearance.

People, Music and Scene:

MrWilsonDJ provided the tunes as always. After a scary hull in the frieght elevator leading to the venue, the guests had plenty of room with very few left standing.  Though, it should be mentioned that Sally Lapointed showed in the same venue seasons past, but the stairs were the only way up. Frieght or five flights of stairs? Spooky elevator please. It was a packed house with Adam Lambert look-a-likes, cool fashion people, but no Lady Gaga.

Rating:

Three out of four Karl Lagerfelds.

MANDY COON

Mandy Coon was one half of the duo Two Mandy DJ's. It figures that a club personality had her foot in fashion. After all, you can see  a lot up there in the DJ booth.  After assisting Camilla Staerk, Mandy Coon took a chance on her own and debuted her own line for Spring 10.  Two years later, shes earned a spots on Style.com and is ever evolving with her edgy, downtown designs.

Colors: Black, white, pops of bright yellow and cobalt blue

Materials: Silk, leather

Loved Looks:

View Full Collection on Style.com

As a designer, Mandy Coon keeps evolving for the better. While she hasn't worked much with color in the past, she used it wisely and included it in her collection as if she felt completely at ease. Personally, yellow seems to work best on dark skin tones, so this blogger would stay far, far away from it. Though the cobalt blue silk tops and accents brought an additional interesting element while still keeping within Mandy Coon's downtown chic. A skort made its way in there, but in a good way for the city girl on the go who doesn't want a pervy guy under the subway stairs peering at the goods. Though at times I notice a few fit issues and hanging threads (but that's my job and I may be one of the few who noticed), no doubt her line will be perfected and ready to go for buyers. And we surely hope to see more Mandy Coon on the racks of more boutiques soon.

Unloved Looks

A look or two was over-worked. A perfect pair of leather pants included a sheer black or blue panel. Minus one element and Mandy Coon would've achieved pure Spring 2012 perfection.

People, Scene and Music

The music in this small off-site venue was experimental new age upon entry. While models walked the runway, a song that sounded some what like Joy Division looped "Dance with us". The venue seemed as if there was wasted space, as there were only two rows of chairs. Perhaps in true fashion-show politics format, the promoters wanted to keep a certain level of exclusivity.  At the last minute, someone had to give up their first row chair for editor Kate Lanphear, who by the way, we see at all of the cooler shows, like Mandy Coon.

Rating:

Three out of four Karl Lagerfelds.

As you are breaking out long pants, sweaters and coats, Jamar Graham, my trusty correspondent and are checking out the collections at New York Fashion Week Spring 2012.

Our fashion week schedule is full of sophomore and even unheard of designers. These are the best shows for us, as its always exciting to see the next up and coming batch of fashion designers. Not to sugar coat, but sometimes we witness a few that need to go back to the drawing board. But, that doesn't mean we don't catch a few shows that knock our socks off --and then we later gloat "I saw her/his first show!"

These are the designers on our radar this season:

Sally LaPointe

Sally Lapointe Spring 2011 Debut, Photo: Dan Lecca

In Spring 2011, Sally Lapointe debuted, did her own thing and stood out among what seems to be an ever growing fashion week (seriously, when did the definition of "week" turn into ten days). Her signature designs are emotional, structural and flawlessly constructed. Oh, and you may have heard, Lady Gaga is a fan. Why wouldn't she be? Lapointe is what is lacking on the American design scene when it comes to runway shows and new lines, and that is a fearless experimental drive to create garments according to her standards without toning it down for the mass market.

Parkchoonmoo

There are many "o's" in Demoo Parkchoonmoo's name. As is there was in her audience with her first show in US for Concept Korea, a collective of Korean designers who showed during the Fall 2011 season of New York Fashion Week. With an industrial design and fashion education, her designs reflect her knowledge with fluid, geometric shapes. She's new to us, but she's been on the forefront of Korean fashion since 1988 with numerous awards to show for it.

Jen Kao

This Kansas native is not brand new. She showed her first collection back in 2008. She moved to New York in 1999 to study studio art and from there developed an interest in textile design. Her collections often include feminine, flowing pieces, constructed leathers and some of the most unique knits I've seen. Her mix of cool and lady-like is something to see more of. She keeps getting better.

Norman Ambrose

Many times new designers lean towards the edgy or downtown side. Not Norman Ambrose. His first presentation for New York Fashion week last Fall was all uptown with tailored coats, long gowns and sophisticated separates. His show landed him on many ones to watch lists for this season. And, yes, he should stay there. His clothes are already on par with the veterans like Salvatore Ferragamo, Oscar de la Renta and Ralph Lauren. It only has to get better from here.

Honorable Mentions:

We're not going to lie. We don't know much about these designers. But we are not going to miss these shows because we are tossing the dice and hoping for something breathtaking, new and exciting.

Katya Leonovich

Bridal? Hmm. Does this mean there is no more Bridal Market Week?

Rolando Santana

The press release says we will fall in love as if we were in Florence on cobble stone streets. Plus he collaborated with Manolo Blahnik for this show. Sounds good.

Angelina Mata Atelier

She's from Texas and that in itself is a reason to go. It couldn't be as bad as the designer who blasted Giant by Dimitri Tominkin on repeat. Please, don't do that to us again.

Christine Alcalay

The invite looked colorful and performance art-ish. Okay. Why not.

GARY GRAHAM

I thought it was only fitting to bring back blogging buddy Jamar Graham this season to cover Gary Graham.

My first show of the Fall/Winter 2011/12 Season consisted of what I thought to be 70’s and 80’s references from designer Gary Graham at his Tribeca boutique.  What I took away from his new collection consisted of a collage of motifs from Jim Morrison, Jimi Hendrix, and Janis Joplin’s eclectic styles. The hair was volumed Joan Jett styled wigs paired with paisley print bandannas. With the addition of safety pin necklaces, converse sneakers, few graphic tee’s and striped cotton socks, I was sure I was right.

I was wrong though, Gary Graham took inspiration from Joseph Campbell's Hero with a Thousand Faces. Graham told the story of three phases: departure, initiation, and return.

Looks included carrot leg pants, draped over-sized cardigans, abstract digital printed leggings and dresses, smart suiting jackets, and beautiful silk dresses and blouses.

An interesting mix of motifs and references made for a upbeat stylish collection from one of New York’s creative designer collections.

Colors

Charcoal, beige, black, digital prints in yellow, red, and orange, maroon, and Ivory

Materials

Silk, embroidered wools, cotton, lycra, felt, shearling, twill.

Loved Looks

My favorite look was hands down an amazing draped Ivory floor length wool coat with dart detailing at the hem.

Unloved look

Embroidered wool gauze jacket, black t-shirt, and border batik silk dress.

People, Scene and Music

Abandoned seaside dock with slanted door opening?

Note from Editor: I've never read Joseph Campbell's A Hero With a Thousand Faces. I'm going to go with my first assumption and say Jamar hasn't either. But, Fashion Funhouse Emporium is an educational blog, as you can tell from its name. From what my research tells me, Campbell's hero theory is based on monomyth. Though this is not Campbell's word for word explanation, the idea is that a normal dude has the chance to be a hero. If he so chooses, he ventures into a supernatural world where he faces trials and tribulations. He learns stuff, then he comes back to the normal world kickin' some knowledge.

Jamar gives the Gary Graham Presentation at Karl head rating of:

What the hell does this mean? View the Fashion Funhouse Emporium Karl-head Rating System.

Billy Reid

Billy Reid was named GQ magazine's 2010 best new menswear designer in America. Its not without merit. To most of us Yankees, when hear Mr. Reid was born in the South, we don't associate it with high style. Though, we are mistaken when it comes to Billy Reid's rugged yet preppy menswear. Along with his GQ credentials, in 2001, he won the CFDA's award for best new men’s designer. With handmade Italian shoes, and coveted men's boots that look quite sexy tucked into boots, and button downs for every man, Billy Reid proves that style doesn't just exist in the New York bubble.

Colors: navy, khaki, red, brown, gray, ivory

Materials: jersey, linen, cotton, denim, chambray

Loved Looks

Photo: Bradley Dean

Photo: Bradley Dean

Photo: Bradley Dean

When it comes to dressing men, Billy Reid has a knack for outfitting guys with style but not too much pretension. Even if guys aren't into the look as a whole, piece by piece, the well constructed basic garments like the tonal plaid cotton dress shirt with heirloom tank. Suspenders on a guy are always kind of hot to me especially paired with a no fuss shirt and rolled chinos. At this presentation, Billy Reid also revealed two collaborations: one with K-Swiss sneakers and the other includes six piece bag collection called "Made in the USA" available exclusively Gilt MAN in November.

Unloved Looks

Photo: Bradley Dean

Is anyone else as tired of madras as I am? Actually, I never liked it. It looks clownish.  Nice jacket though.

Music

No songs listed.

People and Scene

I always prefer presentations over runway since they have more of an intimate atmosphere. With Reid's simple sophistcate style, the MAC & Milk Studios spaces suited his aesthetic welll. With wooden slats for the models to stand on in front of antique doors provided by some buds at Southern Accents Architectural Antiques (set design was based on the photographic work of Clarence John Laughlin.) people mingled and took photos and chatted with Magic Hat Beer in hand. Hip guys and gals attended along with model Selita Ebanks and Food Network's "Five Ingredient Fix" host Claire Robinson.

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