Fashion Funhouse Emporium

Libertine struck it big as CFDA finalists in 2004 when the line was designed by both Johnson Hartig and Cindy Greene. The two ventured into several collaborations with other artists such as Goyard, Damien Hirst, Be@rbrick, Muji, and Converse. And of course, there's they were one of the first designers to jump on board with Target.

A look at Libertine's bio page now, and you'll notice there is no mention of Cindy who helped launch the line, she screen printed; he tailored. If you head over to Cindy's site, you see Johnson Hartig mentioned. Greene left to pursue other creative endeavors according to her bio.

So how does Fashion Funhouse Emporium's guy on the town, Jamar, think of the line as a one-man show? Read on.

Materials: Wool, tweeds, painted sequins, metallic brocades.

Colors: Royal blue, black, wine, cream, yellow, fuchsia, orange, red, white, turquoise, and grey

Loved Looks

View full collection on Style.com

The triumphant fashion week return of Libertine was a hyped show that indeed delivered. The brand has  always had it’s cool-hipster points. Now, since it’s a one-man show after a split from co-founder Cindy Greene two years ago, there seems to be a new spirit and mood that Johnson Hartig wanted everyone to be a part of.  Prim and proper proportion, the key to his collection included acid hyper prints over plaids and flannels. Taking inspiration from vintage 60’s shapes (Libertine's first collections started from reworking actual vintage pieces) and a post WWI wood block blown up to the point of distortion. Who would think a chunk of wood led to the beautiful prints that were all over the jackets, coats, tops, dresses, and tights?  After this collection, lets hope that Libertine jumps back on the scene for good.

Unloved Looks

It seems a bit strange to hold on to the label's name "Libertine" since Hartig's rendition has a very different amped atheistic than the oringal line with former founder Cindy Greene. While the collection holds its own, it strays from the very vintage designs that put them on the map. Johnson Hartig can very well be successful with his own namesake label, as his collection was the most cohesive of all the Libertine collections to date.

People, Scene and Music

The show was held off-site which usually means a more cherry-picked crowd for established designers like Libertine. With Rodarte’s Kate Mulleavy, Thom Browne, Bergdorf's Linda Fargo and Meredith Melling Burke sitting front row, you can tell that Jamar and I weren't the only ones curious about the runway return of the line. Exit Art is usually so out of the way, that only the dedicated show up. The music was your typical runway fare by another DJ with a slick name: Farmer Dave Scher.

Video

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Complex Geometries

All we could find about these designers are that they are from Montreal Canada.  You can buy their clothes online and in the store Project No. 8, a carefully curated New York City boutique. Hurry before the retailer gets taken over by a Gap.

Now on to Jamar Graham's Review!

Materials: chiffon, charmeuse, silk, wool, suede, mohair, angora.

Colors: sand, stone, black, champagne, wine, metallic foil, grey, blush, smoke.

Loved Looks

View full collection at nymag.com

Draped for the woman's man or the man's woman? This neutered collection had a true dark, but natural feeling to the collection with the showing of stone necklaces and wooden platform boots. The epitome of of unisex clothing, the androgynous looks that could be related to a more feminine version of Rick Owens. Is it bad that I always reference and relate to Parisian designers? Not at all, because like Karl, I value my opinion. The best ideas come from established Paris luxury lines. We look to them and scoop out what we can afford to “get the look.” Complex Geometries served up a great interpretation. The stone accessories styled as necklaces and bracelets were a collaboration with Harakiri, which reminded me of age rings from the center of an of old oak tree. Very complex indeed.
The off-the-shoulder mohair sweater with suede shorts and two stone necklaces was a favorite!

Unloved Looks

There was a draped top that looked like a scarf tucked into a black wrap skirt. No bueno.

Amber's two cents: Um, some of these looks were not unisex, unless you're a guy who dresses in drag. Then, by all means...proceed.

People, Music and Scene

Fashion at the strip club, now that is what fashion is about! The tunes were moody fashion music that makes you seem like your a part of the cool crowd by Ms. Honey Dijon. Check out her page, she's vampin' in the nude.

Video

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Ann Yee

One of the newest designers on the block, Yee staged her first presentation at an off-site venue called the Sky Room for New York Fashion Week Fall 2011.She launched her first collection in 2009. The former knitwear designer for Barneys, Elizabeth and James, LAROK and Alice + Olvia set out with ambitions to create her own contemporary line.

Colors: Blues, grays, purples.

Materials: Knts, silks, chiffons, tweeds

Loved Looks

View full collection on wwd and ann yee

Yee's collection was inspired by dark emotions, hence the color schemes of moody grays, black and purple. Particularly cited was Keats' poem When I Have Fears:

When I have fears that I may cease to be
Before my pen has glean'd my teeming brain,
Before high-piled books, in charactery,
Hold like rich garners the full ripen'd grain

Ah, I remember when I was in my 20's and so inspired by melancholy. (It will pass and you'll be more inspired by pay checks. Just kidding. Im still in my teens. Er, mentally.) Though, Ann Yee had some solid separates that hit the middle ground in a market of too young and too old. Structured trousers and dresses helped with a sophisticated silhouette, without being too granny.

Unloved Looks

Here's the thing. With 60 some shows that I actually put into my schedule, not counting the ones I entered incorrectly into my calender and the invites that my US postal courier will dig from the cracks of his seat and decide to deliver three weeks from now, and not counting the designers that will never invite me to their shows...New York Fashion Week is cluttered. Its the equivalent of Times Square advertising. You are bound to remember the ones that stand out the most. With Ann Yee's show, while there was nothing terrible, there weren't many pieces that stood out in this massively over saturated market. Perhaps if she continues, she will find her way and break though the crowd.

People, Scene, Music

This off-site show used the Sky Room with the city as its background and violin music as ambiance.

Video

ANN YEE AW11 VIDEO LOOKBOOK from ann yee on Vimeo.

Karl Head Rating

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