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Sep 19, 2011 1:06AM

New York Spring 2012 Fashion Week: Chris Benz

 

Chris Benz

He calls himself "the prince of color" a play on the "prince of darkness" obviously. Quirky, cool and fun designer Chris Benz doesn't do silly clothes though. Raised in Seattle with an ability to translate what he sees into well-crafted sportswear, Benz has been showing his own original take on women's clothing since he started out on his own. He's only been showing since 2007, but his collections were revealed with critical acclaim. Still not a household name, it doesn't seem to matter to his following who demand something different from their everyday clothes.

Colors: White, black, orange, yellow, green and blue

Materials: Silks, cotton blends, beading.

Loved Looks:

View Full Collection on NyMag

This collection was fun and full of color but as always with Chris Benz, its not to the level of absurdity. Hes one of the few originals in American sportswear showing at New York Fashion Week because its anything but boring. I loved the Alejandro Ingelmo collaboration cute sneakers paired with skirts. For those of us on fashion shoots and are our feet all day (and I'm sure other working fashionable city girls) any promotion of comfortable footwear is welcome. Its hard to pull of a massive mix of graphic prints and bold color, but its done right with the circle black and white pencil skirt and the color pop blouse. A mixed print kimono style dress can go day to evening soiree easily. Baggy pants with a orange stripe shirt and sneakers work for that casual, but stylish girl.

Unloved Looks:

Not "unloved" per say, but I don't know how to feel about the all beaded kelly green jacket and skirt. My first thought or word association was "Astro-turf." If he would've glued a gold ball on it, it may have ended up on Lady Gaga. It still might, actually.

People, Music and Scene:

On the other side of Lincoln Center, in Avery Fischer Hall models lined up in the hallway close to the balcony overlooking the rest of the locale. The DJ in the corner was spinning tunes I recognized as being of that Warholain Factory vibe. Lou Reed's Vicious and Peter Sarstedt's Where do you Go To played while models stood still on crates. I didn't see Chris Benz with his pink hair lurking anywhere, but there were a few recognizable faces. Johnny Wier (who I later saw get bum-rushed by a woman while he was entering the tents --"I love you. You're my favorite skater" she said. TV personality and design pro Nate Berkus, Kelly Osborne, Jordin Sparks all came to lend their support. I caught a few socialites and editors as well. A nice low key presentation besides the celeb-hawkers, most enjoyed the bar on the balcony.

Four out of four Karl Lagerfelds

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Sep 14, 2011 2:00AM

New York Fashion Week Spring 2012: Gretchen Jones

 

Gretchen Jones

Jamar, Fashion Funhouse Emporium's fashion week correspondent is often snagged and photographed by street photographers for his unique and edgy style. He headed to the Gretchen Jones presentation for me. He gives us his rundown after the Introduction below.

Gretchen Jones came to reality TV fame on Project Runway as season 8 winner. Tim Gunn thought she was the show's bully, but Micheal Kors and Nina Garcia thought she earned the win. Her show invite came in the form of a court summons and her models stood as if they were in a police line up. I'm thinking this designer is trying to tell us she's being unfairly charged? Color Block separates on the cell block...okay I'll quit with the puns and get on with it.

Now, with her feet planted in Brooklyn, she's setting out to be known as Gretchen Jones the designer. She plans to stay true to her rural roots with the materials she chooses to work with: wool, bamboo, and organic cottons. She's also a member of the Save the Garment District alliance which supports ethical practices.

 

Colors: Orange, blue, black

Materials: Denim, cotton

Loved Looks:

The collection had a cool vibe, much like the people attending. Precisely draped dresses and separates with an asymmetrical cut were layered over each other. High waisted pants with front bow ties and chambray and pin stripe denims stood out as did intentionally unfinished chiffon. All of these elements  infused the collection giving it a bit more...ugh I hate this word, edge.

Most of the collection piece names were named after western and Indian spirituality themes like Medusa's head dresses, chevron patterns, Dragons blood gowns, and Lions tongue blouses. Don't worry, it was just the names not actually the design of the pieces.

The collection was dedicated to Gretchen's father Robert Bewley. A nice collection indeed for a Project Runway alumni with a bad rep.

Unloved Looks:

There is a question as to which market these clothes will belong to. They seem a bit refined for the contemporary market, but not meant for the luxury market. Obviously with the safe designs, she's hoping to sell some clothes.

People, Music and Scene:

Something was in the air here and it was rock and roll. Every girl looked like a Becka Diamond rip-off. Attendees were all sporting heavy duty rock-inspired outfits, even myself. Vintage rock tees and caftans, leather vests, and jackets were all ripped and reconstructed (FYI it was about 83 degrees on Thursday during the day), skinny jeans and about every style of boot you can imagine.

*Jamar knew who Becka Diamond was. Hes definitely cooler than me.

Rating:

Two out of four Karl Lagerfelds

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Sep 14, 2011 1:01AM

New York Spring 2012 Fashion Week: Jen Kao

 

Jen Kao

Inspired by lucid and paralytic dreams, Jen Kao brings more of her signature street style with easy refinement to the runway. With five seasons of showing at Fashion Week and one resort collection under her belt, she is working a bit more with pattern than in the past. The major differences each season, while still keeping true to her style is the reason why we want to continue to see her evolve.

Colors: orange, ivory, pink, blue, lilac, pastels

Materials: Jersey, chiffon, lace, knit, organza, hemp, cotton

Loved Looks:

View Full Collection on Style.com

Jen Kao's strength lies in the intricate knits and laces that she creates. The papaya orange dress will look great for a spring night out or even on a young starlet on the red carpet. For those of us who run around during our day jobs, the mermaid printed shirt dress paired with adorable high tops are perfect for a get-up-and go look. The blue lace shirt dress is an easy change from day to night. The versatility of her separates are what makes Kao's collection retail ready, while the addition of paper origami elements by The Paper Cut Project made her collection show ready.

Unloved Looks:

The sneakers didn't work with everything, though I wish they did.

People, Music and Scene:

The music was listed as Albert Swarm on the program. Shown at Lincoln Center's studio, there were still plenty of seats left to fill when the standing line was let in. As always with Lincoln Center, there are the people who are there to be seen, celebrity chasers and those who are there for the clothes. Socialite and jack-of-all trades Becka Diamond sat front row. Did I mention Micheal Stipe from REM was there? I sat across the row from him, and I had no idea. He was incognito with a hat, moustache and sunglasses, looking way older than I remember him from the days when I played his song Crush with Eyeliner ad nausea as a college radio D.J. That's a great song. Stand, on the other hand...

Rating:

Three out of four Karl Lagerfelds

 

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Sep 13, 2011 12:56PM

New York Spring 2012 Fashion Week: Mimi Plange

 

Mimi Plange

Jamar, Fashion Funhouse Emporium's fashion week correspondent is often snagged and photographed by street photographers for his unique and edgy style. He headed to the Mimi Plange Presentation for me. He gives us his rundown after the bio.

Mimi Plange strives to design clothes that reflect the mood of a women in garments that are both special and timeless. With a BA in Architecture and a minor in dramatic Art, like many others with similar backgrounds, she turned to fashion design.  She worked with both Rachel Roy and Patricia Field before setting out on her own.

Colors: pink, pastel, white, green, yellow

Materials: sequins, satin, silk

Loved Looks:

View full collection at WWD

Plange took to juxtaposing large scale Eastern floral prints with the traditional dress of the Himba, and the Victorian dress of the Herero. The result was  feminine and strong. The tailoring showed her expertise with clean lines with slightly aggressive shapes. The couture details based on traditional hand crafted garments made for something modern for that special sophisticated woman that does Mimi Plange justice. Her collaboration with  Manolo Blahnik showcased along side her collection featuring an amazing nude sandals with leather cut outs and leather tassels, as well as a silk floral beaded bootie that could stand on its on.

Unloved Looks:

Next to the amazing floral looks, a plain pink sheath dress gets passed right by.

People, Music and Scene:

This presentation was relatively low key, that is if you didn't cross paths with Andre Leon Tally and Rachel Zoe, both who are putting thier support behind the new designer. Held at Asian Society on the Upper East Side of NY, the collection was presented beneath a beautiful floral installation.

Rating:

Two and Three Quarter Karl Lagerfelds out of Four

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